City Island Nautical Museum

Edification value  3/5
Entertainment value  2/5
Should you go?  2/5
Time spent 38 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned Baby Bootlegger was a 1924, 29-foot 10-inch speedboat with a 240 horsepower engine.  She was designed by George F. Crouch, built by Henry B. Nevins of City Island, and owned by Caleb Bragg.  She won the Gold Cup in 1924 and 1925 and I’m sure no rum was ever run in her.

City Island Nautical Museum Sign

Misnomer Island

“New York” conjures very specific images.  Possibly positive, possibly negative, but distinctive, and related to density, height, congestion, diversity, and creativity.  Extremes of wealth and poverty.  And yet New York also contains neighborhoods that feel nothing like “New York.” 

The City Island Nautical Museum aims to tell the story of arguably the least “New York” place in all of New York City.  Despite its misleading name, City Island does not feel “city” in any way.  Rather, it’s a quiet village, whose heritage and livelihood has long focused on the waters of Long Island Sound.

City Island was part of the massive tract of land ceded by the Lenape to Thomas Pell (whose story the Bartow-Pell Mansion recounts) in 1654.  It developed into a fairly self-sufficient seagoing community. Oystering supported City Islanders for many years, until the oysters ran out.  And boatbuilding was a massive industry.  Eight America’s Cup winning yachts were built at City Island from 1870-1980.  And they built mine sweepers there during World War II.

City Island Nautical Museum, Bronx, New York
Sailmakers’ Tools

Today, sailors still have reason to go — it’s home to some five yacht clubs.  But for most New Yorkers, City Island barely registers in their consciousness, except as a curious, far-flung corner of the city.

A Schoolhouse Full of Stuff

The City Island Nautical Museum occupies the island’s old schoolhouse.  Its four rooms each focus on a specific theme:

  • the School Room, focused on the island’s schools and kids who went there;
  • the Nautical Room, on boats and boatbuilding;
  • the Community Room, on life on City Island from pre-colonial days to now; and
  • the Library.

City Island Museum LibraryIn addition to various books, copies of Yachting magazine going back to the 1930s, and neat ship models, the library currently houses a temporary show of local artwork memorializing the City Island Bridge, recently torn down.

A Charming But Chaotic Collection

Cabinet of Curiosities

I’d call this museum “charming,” if I’m feeling charitable, and “chaotic” if I’m feeling less so.  It’s a bit of both.  This is a museum by accretion, like the Maritime Industry Museum

But the Maritime Industry Museum is a paragon of military-grade organization.  It’s dense but not dusty, its artifacts are well cared for, and you know every object there has been carefully cataloged.

By contrast, the City Island Museum is a hodge-podge.  Things on display  aren’t always in good repair. It feels like the museum may not even know all that it has.  And that’s sort of a shame. 

City Island Nautical MuseumThen again, I have to say much of the collection feels random and not very important.  For example, the museum has an array of outboard motors that look like they date to the 1940s-1960s.  Whose outboard motors were they? Are they historically important for some reason?  Who made them and why?  There’s a case of arrowheads.  A bunch of old bottles.  Old cameras.  Nothing feels…documented.  The artifacts kind of tell a City Island story, in that they all presumably were used there at some point.  But they don’t tell it in coherently.  And they crowd out things that would give a better understanding of the island’s people and times.

Stories I wish the City Island Museum told:

  • City Island’s days as a weekend getaway — it used to have public beaches and an easier connection to the city.  Could it have become a northern Coney Island?
  • The short-lived, dangerous City Island Monorail (amazing story; see the Bowery Boys link in the box at the end of this review).
  • The changing population and demographics of the island.  Who lives there now?
  • Early ambitions for City Island — the name comes from a bout of marketing optimism that it’d someday rival New York as a maritime port.
City Island Nautical Museum, Bronx, New York
The Community Room

Should You Visit?

Like the Old Stone House, this museum isn’t really for tourists.  Or, it’s only partly for tourists.  It’s a center for the community, a place where people can come and research family ties to the island, and a place where clam diggers (i.e., native City Islanders; the rest of us are “mussel suckers”) can contribute bits of their own legacies to be part of the greater story.

You should go to City Island, unquestionably.  It’s unique in New York.  And if you go, to sail, to just look around, or to have a piña colada at Johnny’s Reef Restaurant (which I personally recommend) then, sure, stop in at the City Island Nautical Museum.  It’s a thing to do.  But I would not recommend planning a trip to the island just to visit this small, charming but too-chaotic museum.

For Reference:

Address 190 Fordham Street, City Island
Website cityislandmuseum.org
Cost  General Admission:  $5
Other Relevant Links

 

Maritime Industry Museum

Edification value  4/5
Entertainment value  
Should you go?  3/5
Time spent 76 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned Brooklyn Navy Yard Model, Maritime Industry MuseumA scale model of the Brooklyn Navy Yard in full swing during World War II.  I can only imagine the hours and focus and attention it required YNC Leo J. Spiegel USN (Ret.) to build it. Scaled at 1 inch = 50 feet, it depicts 46 naval vessels (all called out by name on a sign below), 273 shipyard buildings, 8 piers, 6 drydocks, and 659 homes in the surrounding area.  BLDG 92, eat your heart out!

A Visit to Fort Schuyler

Throg’s Neck is a peninsula in the Bronx just at the point where the East River becomes Long Island Sound.  In the Age of Sail, the extreme currents of Hell Gate and the general narrowness of the narrows afforded New York natural protection from naval attacks from the Sound.  With the advent of steam power, however, that changed, and so in the 1830s the government acquired a good chunk of Throg’s Neck and built Fort Schuyler there. And a few decades later Fort Totten across the narrows in Queens.

Fort Schuyler, SUNY Maritime, Bronx New YorkThat’s Schuyler as in General Philip Schuyler, father of the Angelica, Elizabeth, and Peggy Schuyler and so Alexander Hamilton’s father-in-law.  It’s a tenuous Hamilton connection, but I’ll take it.

Fort Schuyler today is home to the State University of New York’s Maritime College, where you study if you want to join the merchant marine.  It’s also home to the Throg’s Neck Bridge, which flies right over the school.  And SUNY Maritime also houses the Maritime Industry Museum, which provided me with one of my oddest museum experiences on this project.

The Post-Apocalyptic Museum

I drove out to SUNY Maritime on a lovely June Saturday. The gate at the head of the campus opened for me, and I proceeded in.  I didn’t see a soul.

The Maritime Industry Museum is located within the old defensive bastion of Fort Schuyler, which also contains SUNY Maritime classrooms and administrative buildings.  It’s fantastic that the old fort is still so intact, and so open for exploration.  The museum is large, and yet they make it surprisingly hard to find.  I wandered around the fort for a while, discovering things like a tiny drawbridge and the Bouchard Tugboat Simulation Center.  I did not, however, see any people.

Fort Schuyler, Bronx, New York
Tiny Drawbridge
SUNY Maritime, Bronx New York
Bouchard Tug & Barge Simulation Center

I feel pretty sure that on weekdays during the term, the campus buzzes with life.  But on summer weekends, wow.  It’s post-apocalyptic.

Maritime Industry Museum, SUNY Maritime, Bronx, New YorkFinally, I discovered a door with a small brass plate.  This may be the most stealthy museum I’ve yet visited.  I tried the door, and it opened. So in I went.

“Maritime Industry Museum at Fort Schuyler”

And…no one.  Not an elderly volunteer greeter.  Not a guard.  Not a docent.  Definitely no other visitors.  I was all alone in the heart of Fort Schuyler, in the midst of an amazing assortment of maritime memorabilia.

This museum is sort of what I expected the Noble Maritime Collection would be like:  bunches of forgotten nautical knicknacks, tons of didactic explanations in verbose wall texts from 30 or more years ago.  But its scale and scope impress.  And there are treasures galore for those who explore here.

The Floor Plan

Maritime Industry Museum Floor Plan
Floor Plan

Sprawling across two floors (or A Deck and B Deck) and a good arc of the fort, the museum covers:

  • SUNY Maritime’s history and its training ships
  • Famous alumni, and memorials to those lost at sea
  • A very brief history of sailing in the ancient world
  • A history of the U.S. merchant marine that ends in the 1980s
  • A lot about World War II
  • A section on famous ship disasters (General Slocum, Andrea Doria, Titanic…)
  • Information about the evolution of shipping, including containerization and supertankers
  • Ocean liners of the past and present (mostly past)
  • Lighthouses and lightships
Maritime Industry Museum, Bronx, New York
Maritime History Unfurls

I feel certain I have omitted things.  The philosophy here diverges sharply from the minimalist, less-is-more aesthetic of some contemporary museum curators.  I can’t possibly tell relate everything I saw that made me smile. So here are just some highlights.

Just Some of The Things I Saw

Egyptian Funerary Barge Model

A model of an Egyptian Funerary Barge, all decked out with oars and a mummy.  I’m not sure Funerary Barge Pilot on the Nile is really a going merchant marine career path these days, but you never know.

This crazy pentagonal gizmo, which showed a map of New York Harbor and all the key ways the region contributed to the war effort during World War II, color coded to differentiate logistics from training from wartime industry from defense installations.  Touch a button for a place and the relevant spot or spots light up.  I can’t conceive who would’ve made this or where it was originally. It’s an amazing piece of pre-touchsceen museum interactivity.

WWII Interactive Harbor Map, Maritime Industry Museum

Gershenoff’s Locker, a “replica of a circa 1940s cadet’s locker stowed with care.”

A deck chair from the S. S. United States.

A large-scale model aircraft carrier.  (If you’d like a bigger aircraft carrier, I recommend the Intrepid.)  Models of just about every type of seagoing vessel you can imagine, actually.

Model Aircraft Carrier, Maritime Industry Museum

And an entire place setting from the Queen Elizabeth 2’s 30th anniversary “maritime enthusiasts cruise.”

And a model of and story about the Savannah, the first nuclear merchant ship.  Do they still have those?  I feel like I’d know if there were nuclear powered container ships buzzing about on the seas.  I feel like people would be worried about it.

My Own Private Maritime Museum

The museum’s space actually forms the hallway between the SUNY Maritime classrooms that occupy Fort Schuyler.  If I were studying there, I’m not sure how I’d feel having all this historic stuff cluttering up my hall.  On the one hand, it’s a link to maritime tradition going back centuries.  On the other hand, it’s a bunch of cases of stuff you’re unlikely to be tested on.

SUNY Maritime Classroom
Classroom space in Fort Schuyler

As a non-student, I loved this museum.  I loved historic Fort Schuyler, I loved the “lost treasures in the attic” aesthetic, and the exciting, “what’s around the next corner?” feeling.  And I especially loved being all alone in it.  I have never had that experience before.  My own private maritime museum.

Maritime Industry Museum, Bronx, New York

But Should You Visit?

Despite my strong enthusiasm, I’m not going to insist that everyone rent a car or hire a Lyft and get themselves out to Fort Schuyler.  The Maritime Industry Museum is a diamond in the rough. The collection has grown through gifts from alumni and others. For example, many of the ship models come from the collection of Frank W. Cronican, a bequest to the museum in 1993. It feels like the museum has accreted over time like a coral reef, with only periodic thought to editing or curation.  

Whatever the topic, “accretion” style museums can intimidate. And they can frankly be really boring if you don’t have a metaphorical chart to navigate by.  And even though the maritime industry is worth $14 billion annually in New York State alone–guess where I learned that–most people won’t care enough about it to justify the effort or the drive. 

However. If you love boats or ships of any sort, or if you’re interested in maritime history, then, obviously, you must go. And if you like museum-ology, that would also make this place a must-see.

The Maritime Industry Museum has vast potential. I hope they unlock it someday, though it’ll take a passionate curatorial voice and direction, and a very large grant, to make it happen.

Merchant Marine Poster, Maritime Industry Museum

For Reference:

Address 6 Pennyfield Avenue, Bronx
Website sunymaritime.edu

Bayside Historical Society

Edification value  2/5
Entertainment value  3/5
Should you go?  2/5
Time spent  24 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned Theda Bara, Bayside Historical SocietyIn 1915, Theda Bara, about 30, so-so looks, minor acting credits, exploded into the Madonna of her time. She ranks as the first ever “vamp” in cinema, playing a succession of seductresses and destroyers of men. Every femme fatale since traces her lineage back to Ms. Bara, Bayside resident.

Bayside, Queens, is a neighborhood at the far frontier of New York City, just before it turns into Nassau County.  Today it’s not known for much, except for nice houses and high property values.

Bayside Historical Society, QueensBut just in case anyone is curious about Bayside’s past, it does have a Historical Society, which occupies a little castle of a building on the grounds of nearby Fort Totten.

Originally the officers’ mess and meeting rooms for the Army Corps of Engineers, the building looks excellent today. It shows its age, but is clearly lovingly maintained. And it boasts a modern HVAC system, which I appreciated on a warm summer day. The museum tells essentially one story, that of Bayside’s sole claim to fame. Which is, in fact, fame itself. Continue reading “Bayside Historical Society”

Fort Totten Visitor’s Center & Water Battery

Edification value  
Entertainment value  2/5
Should you go?  2/5
Time spent 33 minutes (at the Visitor’s Center and historic Water Battery; longer in Fort Totten Park total)
Best thing I saw or learned Ostensibly Spanish-American War era “Remember the Maine” graffiti in the tunnel linking the armament storage with the Water Battery.  I’ll never forget.

Graffiti, Fort Totten Water Battery, Queens, New York
Original (?) Spanish-American War Graffiti

Fort Totten, Queens, New York

A Capsule History

In my Park Avenue Armory review, I wrote about the slight envy I feel for the  era when arsenals and shoreline fortresses sufficed to protect the city against threats from abroad. Fort Totten is one of those shoreline fortresses. Continue reading “Fort Totten Visitor’s Center & Water Battery”

National Jazz Museum in Harlem

Edification value 2/5 
Entertainment value  2/5
Should you go?  
Time spent 13 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned

A poster of the famous Esquire Magazine jazz family portrait, taken on the stoop of a Harlem brownstone.  The museum doesn’t  say much about the creation of the picture, but the 1995 documentary “A Great Day in Harlem” covers it well.

Hey there, daddy-o, if you’re a swingin’ hep cat and you dig the syncopated sounds of America’s native musical form, have I got a museum for you!

Actually, I don’t.  I went to the Jazz Museum skeptical but hopeful, and ultimately I can’t recommend it.

Skeptical because how do you put jazz in a museum?  Music of any sort is a tricky thing to museum-ify. But jazz in particular, with its energy and improvisation…  you could have a Hall of Fame for jazz.  But a museum?

Hopeful because, hey, you never know.  The right combination of stories, artifacts, and interactive listening kiosks might be able to do justice to the vast sweep of traditions that comprise jazz and its influence across the whole of music.

In the event, the Jazz Museum is at best a proto-museum.  An aspirational museum. A sketch or an outline for an institution in the future. It occupies a small ground floor space on a side street in Harlem, and seems largely to exist as a shrine to one of Duke Ellington’s pianos.  They have a couple of other instruments from less famous instrumentalists, and a chunk of a living room emphasizing the importance of music in homes in Harlem. But really there wasn’t much to see.

Duke Ellington's Piano, Jazz Museum Harlem
Duke Ellington’s Piano

They had Ella playing in the background, but even that proved a mixed blessing.  There were a couple of touchscreens where visitors can listen to jazz, but the background music, while good, interfered with listening to the headphones.

Interactive Screen The Jazz Museum, Harlem
Also, their interactive jazz bios are in some cases tragically out of date.

On the other hand, their space includes a tiny, informal performance area in the back, and while I was there an older gent stopped in and just started playing the piano.  Really well. As a musically untalented person, I hate people who can do that. But deeply appreciated it in that space.

National Jazz Museum in HarlemVisiting the National Jazz Museum made me think about the regular reports of the death of jazz, which may even be deader than opera at this point.  I wondered if having a museum to it serves as yet another piece of evidence for the demise of the form? They have a display with photos of young jazz musicians, and sorta reach toward hip-hop, kinda. But really nothing I saw there suggests anything innovative or interesting has happened in jazz since the 1970s.

I firmly believe that museums for specific groups or cultures can emphasize the aliveness of the cultures they represent.  Both the Museum of Chinese in America and the National Museum of the American Indian do that in different ways and at different scales. But I don’t think the National Jazz Museum succeeds.  If jazz isn’t dead yet, maybe the museum will kill it.

If you are in New York City and are curious about or interested in jazz, here are an assortment of things I’d suggest you do rather than visit the Jazz Museum:

  • Hear a show at Smoke, Jazz Standard, Village Vanguard, Minton’s or any of a dozen or so other clubs.
  • Go to Jazz at Lincoln Center.  A bit more stuffy and formalized — more like a museum for jazz if you will, but Wynton Marsalis is the reigning king of the art form.  And the Allen Room has the best view of any music venue in New York City.
  • Check out art from the Jazz Age–either the exemplary show currently at the Cooper-Hewitt, or any time at the Whitney.
  • Make a pilgrimage to the final resting places of Duke Ellington and Miles Davis in Woodlawn Cemetery.
  • Rent or stream Ken Burns’s PBS jazz series
  • Visit Louis Armstrong’s house in Corona, Queens

As for the Jazz Museum, maybe, possibly go to a performance there. But skip it otherwise.

For Reference:

Address 58 West 129th Street, Manhattan
Website jazzmuseuminharlem.org
Cost Free
Other Relevant Links

National Museum of the American Indian Heye Center

Edification value  4/5
Entertainment value  3/5
Should you go?  3/5
Time spent 73 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned A pair of Christian Louboutin boots laboriously decorated with antique glass beads by Jamie Okuma, of the Louiseño and Shoshone-Bannock tribes.

National Museum of the American Indian, New YorkThe National Museum of the American Indian’s George Gustav Heye Center is one of the Smithsonian Institution’s two New York outposts (along with the Cooper-Hewitt).  It could be the museum with the longest name in the city.

You may think, “But doesn’t the Smithsonian have a National Museum of the American Indian on the Mall in D.C.?” Yes, it does. The Heye Center in New York came first, though.  It started as the Museum of the American Indian, opening in Harlem way back in 1922, to display George Gustav Heye’s expansive collection of Native American arts and crafts.  In due course, the Smithsonian took over. While it started planning for the D.C. museum (which opened in 2004) in the 1990s, it also opted to keep a New York outpost.

The Building

Today, the National Museum of the American Indian makes its home in a spectacular Beaux Arts building at the southern end of Broadway.  The architect Cass Gilbert designed the Alexander Hamilton U.S. Customs House, which opened in 1907.  (The name is the sole Hamilton connection, but I’m counting it!) A monument to commerce wrought in stone, it’s a far grander and more prominent building than Federal Hall National Memorial, which also was built as a customs house.

Allegorical Figures, Alexander Hamilton Customs House, New York

Truly it’s a magnificent piece of architecture, festooned with allegorical sculptures and heroic traders and all manner of artsy ornamentation. Daniel Chester French, the sculptor of Lincoln at the Lincoln Memorial, did four figures representing the major regions of the world.  Pictured here, fittingly, is “America.”

Inside some bits of historic grandeur remain, too. A matched set of swirly spiral staircases graces the corners. And the building centers on a –I know I already used the word “spectacular” but I’m using it again deliberately–spectacular oval rotunda.  I wish they did more with that space! It features some benches, ratty carpeting, and brass light fixtures currently. But really it cries out to be a fancy cafe or something.  I suspect the building’s landmark status prevents altering the rotunda to make better use of its potential.  Too bad.  The rotunda perimeter features Reginald Marsh murals of New York City, ships in the harbor, and historic figures important in trade in the United States– people like Columbus and Henry Hudson, whose presence seems more than a little ironic in the context of the building’s current use.

Oval Rotunda, National Museum of the American Indian, New YorkIndeed, the idea of turning a building focused on trade, from an era that unabashedly glorified the commercial impulses that ended up dispossessing the Native American tribes of their lands, into a museum for those nations…well.  I find it pretty ironic.

Or perhaps fair and fitting: why not have a colonization work in the other direction for once?

The Exhibits

The Heye Center divides into three galleries.  One of them hosts a permanent exhibit on the Native American nations. The other two feature changing exhibits.  When I visited, one focused on Central American pottery, and the other looked at contemporary Native American fashion designers.

Native Fashion Now at the National Museum of the American Indian, New York

Dustin Martin, designer, “This is not a peacemaker” T-Shirt. I love an ironic Magritte reference…

I’m particularly impressed that the Heye Center would put on something like the fashion show.  My stereotypical view of a Native American Museum would be all tradition and dusty artifacts.  I like that they care to show how American Indians today carry their traditions forward, creating both beautiful things and successful businesses.  It seems a through-line of the place that the objects on display represent more than just, well, museum pieces.

The permanent exhibit, titled “Infinity of Nations,” is somewhat dense and dusty, and tries valiantly to do  justice to an entire continent’s worth of tribes and traditions in a fairly small space.  That said, as a native of Hawai’i, I felt slightly vexed that the museum sticks just to the continent.

Dark colored texts call out commentaries from tribal members and other experts

However, I did very much like how the permanent collection intersperses descriptive wall texts with occasional signed ones, written by tribal representatives and other experts on Indian cultures. The specific voices create an immediacy that most museum texts lack, reminding visitors that these cultures still value these objects and their creators.  For the same reason, I like how the collection includes contemporary arts and crafts.  Finally, I also appreciate the way the curators deployed just a few touchscreens to offer deeper dives into key objects.  It felt like they chose the right things.

Buffalo Hide Robe, National Museum of the American Indian, New York
Apsáalooke warrior’s exploit robe, Ft. Benton, Montana, ca. 1850.

On balance, the Heye Center seems to maintain a good relationship with Native American communities.  Of course, I’ve only got their word on that.  But (a) Heye paid for all the items in his collection, didn’t just loot them, (b) many seem to realize that had he not treasured and saved these things, they likely would no longer exist, and (c) the Museum allows the tribes liberal access to the collections, for both study and ceremonial purposes.

The Bottom Line

Everyone should visit the Heye Center.  More than I expected, it depicts American Indian cultures as vital, living things.  And it does so in creative ways, via (at least sometimes) inventive, unexpected exhibits. Even if you’ve been to the D.C. National Museum of the American Indian, coming here might still offer new things to look at and to think about.  And the building is, as I may have mentioned, spectacular.

National Museum of the American Indian, New York
Infinity of Nations

For Reference:

Address One Bowling Green, Manhattan
Website si.edu
Cost  Free
Other Relevant Links

 

Brooklyn Historical Society

UPDATE APRIL 2021: In 2020, the Brooklyn Historical Society merged with the Brooklyn Public Library to create the Center for Brooklyn History. Not sure what that’s going to mean for the institution going forward; currently the building is only open to pick up library books.

Edification value  3/5
Entertainment value  3/5
Should you go?  3/5
Time spent 65 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned A quote from Truman  Capote, Brooklyn Heights resident in 1958:  “Often a week passes without my ‘going into town,’ or ‘crossing the bridge,’ as neighbors call a trip to Manhattan.  Mystified friends, suspecting provincial stagnation, inquire, ‘But what do you DO over there?'”

Brooklyn Historical Society Entrance

The Brooklyn Historical Society started its life as the Long Island Historical Society back in 1863, as Brooklyn was booming.  Today it still resides in the LIHS’s  absolutely beautiful, landmarked, red brick building in Brooklyn Heights, opened in 1881.  For a large building, the two floors of exhibit spaces are surprisingly intimate, making it easy to visit the whole thing in an hour or so.

Potential visitors should know that the society does not tell the whole Brooklyn story.  You’d get a better sense of Brooklyn’s timeline at BLDG 92. When I went the Historical Society offered three exhibits:  Brooklyn abolitionists, Jackie Robinson’s career, and recently rediscovered photos of late 1950s Brooklyn.

Exhibition Roundup

The abolition show was beautifully designed and laid out, with projections and suspended floating pictures dividing up the space. These and some interactive elements helped make it engaging even though it was comprised mainly of wall texts and reproduced historic images rather than artifacts. The exhibit started by  reinforcing the surprising fact of how widespread slave ownership was in revolutionary-era Brooklyn, which I learned at the Old Stone House. It then pivots to celebrate the 19th century religious and intellectual Brooklynites who argued for abolition.

The Jackie Robinson exhibit, too, consisted largely of wall texts and a timeline, although it did feature a case of Robinsoniana in the middle of the room.  I found it educational, but dry. City Reliquary‘s shrine to Jackie Robinson conveyed the heartfelt relationship between the man and the borough much better. 

Jackie Robinson at the Brooklyn Historical Society

Finally, “Truman Capote’s Brooklyn: The Lost Photographs of David Attie,” was a terrific small exhibit.  David Attie, a young photographer, received a commission to take pictures of Brooklyn to accompany a magazine piece Truman Capote was writing about his life there.  He spent a day or two wandering around the borough with Capote as his guide and interpreter. Assignment done, years passed, and everyone assumed the unused pictures long gone until Attie’s son stumbled upon the negatives and even some prints.  They constitute a splendid snapshot of a Brooklyn long, long gone, from a pair of very distinctive perspectives. And they’re all the better for being so fresh — many not seen since Attie took them.

David Attie, by the way, was the husband of Dotty Attie, one of the co-founders of A.I.R. Gallery— eventually all museums connect!

That Building!

The Brooklyn Historical Society’s gorgeousness struck me throughout — a very loving restoration must have happened here in the not-too-distant past.  The light fixtures!  The woodwork!  The stained glass skylight! And each floor had different humorously old-timey logos indicating where the gents and ladies rooms were.  A small thing, but I appreciated it.

Brooklyn Historical Society

In addition to the exhibit spaces, the Society houses the yet-again stunningly beautiful Othmer Library. When I visited, it contained significant amounts of dark, polished woodwork, a studious hush, and lots and lots of historical documents.  One of the librarians told me that many people use it for genealogical research. And for the first time in my life, I was sad I have no Brooklyn ancestry.

Othmer Library, Brooklyn Historical Society
Othmer Library, Brooklyn Historical Society

In addition to exhibits, the Brooklyn Historical Society programs talks ranging from real estate to fishing to hip hop.  And has a suitably beautiful space for that, too.  It also just opened a small branch in DUMBO, so there’s more to see beyond the Pierrepont Street mother ship.Brooklyn Historical Society

Worth the Trip?

The Brooklyn Historical Society has one of the loveliest spaces of any  museum I’ve visited.  And I trust its curators to organize excellent exhibitions.  That said, two of the three shows were mainly wall-text-and-pictures exhibits–albeit well done examples of the style.  If you’re a Brooklynite of any stripe (birth, residence, aspiration, or just in your heart), go for sure.  Otherwise check what they’re showing beforehand, and decide based on your interest level.

For Reference:

Address 128 Pierrepont Street (corner of Clinton Street), Brooklyn
Website brooklynhistory.org
Cost  General Admission:  $10
Other Relevant Links

New York Transit Museum

Edification value  3/5
Entertainment value 4/5
 
Should you go?  4/5
Time spent 113 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned The Transit Museum could rebrand itself as a museum of advertising.  Not only have they lovingly preserved subway cars from the past century, they have kept the ads intact as well.  Each constitutes a hilarious Madison Avenue time capsule.  Remember when wine cost 98c per quart?  I sure don’t.

The Transit Museum is one of only a few New York City museums not housed in a building.  Instead, the city established it in a disused subway station in downtown Brooklyn.

Along with its satellite location in Grand Central Station, this museum features a series of exhibits covering the construction of the subway system, how the transit system responds to disasters, the construction of the Second Avenue Subway, and above-ground transport in New York, from horse trolleys to modern buses.

Lunch pails, New York Transit Museum
Workers’ Lunch Pails and Canteens, from the building of the subway

Trainspotting

But the real heart of the Transit Museum resides downstairs on the subway platform.  There, you can visit lovingly restored El and subway cars from every era of the transit system’s evolution.  Marvel at these steel boxes, with their incandescent lights, exposed fans, rattan seats, and hanging hold-straps.  About the only historic subway feature not documented is the graffiti. I suppose not enough time has passed… The MTA can’t wax nostalgic about tagged trains, at least not yet. And it certainly doesn’t want to encourage anyone.

Vintage Subway Car, Transit Museum
BMT Q Car, 1908, rebuilt 1938

If you have ever felt curiosity about the history of the turnstile, this museum can scratch that itch. It features examples ranging from the manually operated days through modern, automated, swipe-your-metrocard marvels.  Most interesting to me was the large size, un-jump-able rotating cage, affectionately(?) referred to as an “Iron Maiden.” Apparently people sometimes got trapped in those things — horrors!

Turnstiles, New York Transit Museum

A history of the subway token half-tells the story of Silvester Dubosz, the city comptroller who in the 1980s surreptitiously had his initials carved into the token design.  Unlike City Reliquary, where I first heard that story, the Transit Museum doesn’t mention he got sacked for his ego. They also display a whole board of slugs and counterfeit tokens.

The Downside:  Kids Galore

The Transit Museum stands as one of the noisiest museums I’ve visited so far, packed with kids (including a whole birthday party) on a rainy Saturday afternoon.  Can’t hold that against it; I’ve never known a kid who doesn’t love trains, and the museum caters to that audience. Though as for modern parents’ inability to keep their kids under control and well-behaved in public…well, that’s a subject for another blog.  Still, if you’re kidless, you might consider visiting on a weekday.

More than History

The Transit Museum tells the story of the city’s circulatory system — New York literally could not exist without it.  I appreciate that they focus not just on the building of the system and nostalgic old trains, but also on what it will require to keep it functioning in a world of really bad weather and really bad people. The crisis exhibit looked in turn at rebuilding after 9/11, Irene, and Sandy, as well as the blackout of 2003.

Crisis Exhibit at Transit Museum, NYC
“Bringing Back the City: Transit Responds to Crisis” Exhibit

Despite the challenges of modern times, the Transit Museum nonetheless also makes me thankful that I live today.  While paying 98c for a quart of wine appeals to me,  I can’t imagine commuting in one of those incredibly smelly, sweaty, pre-AC subway cars, dressed in a three-piece suit, with only whirring fans to move the muggy air around.  I sometimes think the “Greatest Generation” gets overly lauded, but commuters back then were made of sterner stuff than I, for sure.

A Frustrated Reviewer

The Transit Museum fulfills its mission extremely well.  It covers the things you’d expect a transit museum to, but holds surprises as well.  Although kid-oriented and very kid-friendly, it also presents topics for grown-ups to delve into as well. As I re-read this entry, I feel frustrated because I want to write so much more.  Some highlights:

  • The story of Granville Woods.  As the inventor of the “third rail” power system, he birthed a metaphor. 
  • As a trivia buff, I loved learning that on December 23, 1946, 8,872,244 people used the subway and elevated trains– a record that stands to this day. 
  • I also love Mayor Lindsay’s 1972 quote about the Second Avenue Subway line (proposed in 1919, it finally opened at the end of 2016):  “We know that whatever is said about this project in the years to come, certainly no one can say that the city acted rashly or without due deliberation.”
  • And there’s the wall of trolleys at the Dr. George T. F. Rahilly Trolley and Bus Study Center.

Trolley Models, Transit Museum
New York City Model Trolley Collection

Like the treasures of the Fire Museum, the Transit Museum presents and interprets artifacts no other institution can replicate. Anyone with kids in the city should take them.  And anyone who cares about New York history, or transportation and transit, should consider this Brooklyn hole in the ground a must-visit museum.

Historic Photo, NYC Transit Museum
Building the subway, NYC Transit Museum

For Reference:

Address Boerum Place and Schermerhorn Streets, Underground, Brooklyn
Website nytransitmuseum.org
Cost  General Admission:  $10

 

Old Stone House

Edification value  2/5
Entertainment value  3/5
Should you go?  2/5
Time spent 25 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned In an era when museums (including this one) are full of touch screens, I was happy to see an old-school board game version of the Battle of Brooklyn. Uh-oh, you drew a Hessian card! Except you’re the British, so that’s awesome for you!

Battle of Brooklyn, the Board Game

Old Stone House, Brooklyn

The Old Stone House isn’t actually all that old. And it’s not properly a house, though it is at least partially constructed from stone. Today’s Old Stone House replicates the Vechte-Cortelyou House, dating to 1699.  The original’s history  touches on Brooklyn’s earliest days, the Revolutionary War, and the dawn of the Brooklyn Dodgers. However, the house was demolished in the late 1800s.

That would’ve been that except that in 1934 the omnipresent (and nigh omnipotent) Robert Moses reconstructed it, mainly to serve as restrooms for Washington Park. The reconstruction used at least some of the stones from the original building, but unlike many of the house museums of the city, there’s nothing historic about the interior rooms or furnishings. Rather, the building contains a small museum focused mainly on the Battle of Brooklyn, with a little about the Vechte family.

Old Stone House, Brooklyn, Exhibits

Audience and Program

Mainly a kids museum, the displays are geared to the interests, attention span, and average height of the younger set. And yet, as a gathering place for the neighborhood, it aims at older people too. They show contemporary art in an upstairs space, and host theater and events with intriguing names like “Gin in June.”

The Battle of Brooklyn took place literally in the front garden, as a teeny but fairly dramatic diorama attests.  400 self-sacrificing Marylanders–like the Spartans only one-third more of them–kept a couple thousand redcoats busy long enough for Washington and his troops to slink away to Upper Manhattan, thence to base himself at the Morris-Jumel Mansion, and eventually abandon New York for the rest of the war.

Diorama, Old Stone House, Brooklyn
Beware of Hessians!

In museumological terms, the Old Stone House is rather straightforward. Its displays deploy a mix of technologies, culminating in a touchscreen-based day-by-day review of the Battle of Brooklyn, which I found hard to follow.

A family tree shows how the Revolution divided families between loyalists and revolutionaries. It also names some of the slaves who worked for the Vechte family, though of course no one bothered to record how they felt about independence, or anything else about their thoughts and beliefs. Still, I like that they don’t sweep the Vechte’s slaves under the historic rug. Another brief display on  slavery observes how surprisingly prevalent it was in revolutionary Brooklyn. One in three Kings County residents was a slave, and half of Dutch households owned them.

There’s little to see about the Dodgers, but the original Old Stone House served as the team’s clubhouse in the late 1800s.  Their first ballpark, long since gone, was in Washington Park, before they moved to the legendary (and also long-gone) Ebbets Field.

Moving upstairs, the current contemporary art show, titled “Multilocational,” featured work by two artists touching on themes of migration and acculturation. Sort of a smaller riff on Lehman College’s Alien Nations show.

Old Stone House, Brooklyn, Gallery

Who should visit? The Old Stone House is a quintessential local museum. It programs for its community, and that’s sufficient. Coming from Manhattan made me something of an exotic visitor to their parts. You might consider going if you are a huge fan of the Battle of Brooklyn or the history of baseball.  Otherwise, plenty of other museums offer a better view of Brooklyn and New York City history.

Washington Park, Brooklyn, from Old Stone House
View from the Old Stone House

For Reference:

Address 336 Third Street, Brooklyn
Website theoldstonehouse.org
Cost Free

 

Morris-Jumel Mansion

Edification value  3/5
Entertainment value  3/5
Should you go?  3/5
Time spent 77 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned Sconce With Wallpaper, Morris Jumel Mansion

The mansion has recently undergone a major wall upgrade, installing recreations of historic wallpaper based on Mme. Jumel’s descriptions. The Octagonal Drawing Room features an amazing pattern of clouds against a blue sky.  I must remember that for the next time I renovate MY octagonal drawing room.

Sylvan Terrace, Harlem

The way to the Morris-Jumel Mansion takes you up the gentle slope of Sylvan Terrace, a single block long and one of the most unlikely streets in all of Manhattan.  Paved with perfect cobblestones, both sides of the street consist of a matched set of beautiful, seemingly mint condition, wooden townhouses from the 19th century, all period charm and lovingly preserved detail.  It’s a miracle that it survived, though the big white house on the hill at the end of the terrace is more miraculous still:  the Morris-Jumel Mansion has lasted longer than any other home on the island, dating to 1765.  That makes it about 30 years older than the Dyckman farmhouse, just a bit to the north.  And instead of the Dyckman’s rustic, humble charm, Colonel Roger Morris built to his “summer villa” to impress.

Morris Jumel Mansion

Three stories (four if you include the basement), the grand house featured a columned portico and the first octagonal room in the country.  Col. Morris and his wife, loyal to the British, abandoned the place during the revolution, leading to its moment in the spotlight of history.  More on that later.  In 1810, Stephen Jumel, an immigrant from France, bought the mansion.  His wife, the smart and colorful Eliza Jumel (nee Bowen), has the strongest personality in the house today.

Madame Jumel

Eliza Jumel
Portrait of Eliza Jumel, Artist Unknown, 1832-1833

Eliza Bowen came from a poor family in Rhode Island.  Not only did she find in M. Jumel a successful businessman to marry, but she turned out to be something of a real estate tycoon herself.  The Jumels may not have been welcome in high society (being nouveau riche and from the wrong backgrounds), but they lived well.  They spent time in France, and Madame Jumel (always “Madame,” it seems, never “Missus”) returned with (so she claimed) Napoleon’s bedroom set, and strong ideas about decorating her summer villa.  No one’s quite sure if it really is Napoleon’s bedroom set, but just the fact that she’d tell people that brings her to life.  She lived in the house until she died in 1865, apparently becoming quite eccentric over time.

Hamilton and History

As with all buildings of that vintage, my first question related to my favorite Founding Father.  A.Ham indeed spent time there at least twice. Once during the period from September to October 1776 when Washington made the mansion his headquarters, before the British drove him and the Continental Army out of Manhattan.  And again in 1790 when Washington held a cabinet dinner meeting there.

Also, the notorious A.Burr actually lived here–Madame Jumel married him in 1832, just a year after M. Jumel’s death. Briefly. It seems she got along with him no better than Hamilton did, though at least he didn’t shoot her.  Rather, she divorced him.  Practically unthinkable in that time, it confirms that he really must’ve been a colossal jerk.

ALSO also, Lin-Manuel Miranda asked if he could spend some time in the mansion while he wrote “Hamilton,” the better to immerse himself in the period vibe.  So some portion of the musical came into the world in Aaron Burr’s bedroom at the Morris-Jumel Mansion.

That’s about as Hamiltonian as it gets.

The House Today

Morris-Jumel Mansion Display
Odds and ends, Morris-Jumel Mansion

In addition to Napoleon’s alleged bedstead, the house has some original furniture, with about six rooms fully decorated, and another couple currently undergoing restoration.  The kitchen space in the basement is open, but without much to see. As a fan of old kitchens, I hope they do something with it eventually.  It does contain an odd display of a toaster, a chamberpot, a bedwarmer, and a teacup.  Trying to figure out what those things have in common started to give me a headache.

Morris-Jumel Mansion
Dining Room, Morris-Jumel Mansion

iPad Holder, Morris Jumel Mansion
Insert Tablet Here

Each room has a rather handsome piece of modern wood furniture–a stand or a railing–designed to cradle an iPad.  But no tablets in sight. I asked about that–whether it was an attempt at deploying technology that had failed.  Turns out it’s still a work in progress.  The tablets, when installed, will provide deep dives on individual pieces of furniture, paintings, and other objects.  My skepticism of technology for technology’s sake in this sort of setting remains strong, but I like the idea of using screens to tailor descriptions to the needs and interests of visitors, enabling them to engage more deeply.

Trish, who was working the admission desk/gift shop that day, kindly answered my myriad questions, about technology and about history as well.  She told me that it opened to the public in 1906, like the Van Cortlandt House a project of the Colonial Dames of New York.  I asked how it survived, and she said Washington gets the credit:  although only for a month, the fact that the mansion served as his headquarters earned its preservation. Indeed, when it first opened, the place served as a sort of shrine to Washington and the Revolution. 

Only more recently has the story pivoted to focus on Madame Jumel, who after all lived there a lot longer, and about whose occupancy there’s a lot more historical information and documentation.  And Napoleon’s bedroom set.

Morris Jumel Mansion, Harlem, from Sunken GardenThe mansion’s vast land holdings at one point stretched the (albeit pretty narrow that far north) width of Manhattan.  All that land is now Washington Heights, of course. And yet, its commanding hilltop location, surrounded by tiny, lovely Roger Morris Park, offers a taste of the country to this day.  The grounds burst with rosebushes and even include a small sunken garden. I could easily see going back just to sit there and read a book.

Tea roses at Morris Jumel Mansion
Tea roses at Morris Jumel Mansion

Who should visit the Morris-Jumel Mansion?  Hamiltonians, for sure.  Fans of old wallpaper, and fans of rich eccentric 19th century madames.  Those into colonial architecture and house museums.  The three house museums of upper Manhattan (Dyckman Farmhouse, here, and the Hamilton Grange) provide a  varied look at life in the 18th and early 19th centuries.  Visiting all three of them would make for a highly edifying afternoon. 

For Reference:

Address Roger Morris Park, 65 Jumel Terrace, Manhattan
Website morrisjumel.org
Cost  General Admission:  $10
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