Jewish Children’s Museum

Edification value 3/5
Entertainment value 4/5
Should you go? 3/5
Time spent 113 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned Exodus Escape Room, Jewish Children's MuseumIn March of 2026, the Jewish Children’s Museum launched an escape room themed on the Book of Exodus. Designed for older kids and adults, operating in teams, the escape room requires reservations and a separate admission. I got to peek inside during my tour, and I’m obsessed with the idea of solving puzzles to get out of Egypt. I hear the exit even has a dramatic water feature that simulates parting the Red Sea!

The Jewish Children’s Museum (JCM), slightly over twenty years old, occupies a tall, purpose-built, contemporary building on Eastern Parkway in Crown Heights in Brooklyn, across Kingston Avenue from the world headquarters of the Chabad Lubavitch movement of Judaism.

Jewish Children's Museum Facade

The museum as an unfortunately tragic backstory. Ari Halberstam was 16 years old in 1994 when he and some other kids accompanied the Lubavitcher Rebbe, Menachem M. Schneerson, who needed eye surgery in Manhattan. On the way back, crossing the Brooklyn Bridge, the van Ari was riding in was attacked in a hate crime, and he was killed.

Ari’s mom, Devorah Halberstam, became a crusader against terrorism and anti-semitism, and a proponent of tolerance. Reasoning that kids aren’t born hating anyone, and that the best way to nurture tolerance is to instill understanding, Ms. Halberstam co-founded the Jewish Children’s Museum, which is dedicated to Ari’s memory.

I heard this origin story from Sarah Leah Bronstein, Group Programs Director at the JCM, who kindly gave me a tour of the museum recently. I’m grateful to Sarah and Chaya’le Strassberg, JCM’s Marketing Director for the tour, and for talking with me about the museum and its mission.

Dreidel, Jewish Children's MuseumThe very modern building — nothing obviously traditional or historically informed about it —  features a giant mural made up of photographs of children (Ari included) and a huge steel dreidel sculpture, both of which help indicate the building’s purpose. Inside, the museum houses two main floors of permanent exhibition space, as well as a theater, two restaurants (one meat, one dairy), temporary exhibition space, and a few surprises (like the aforementioned escape room).

The curators of the museum approach Judaism along two axes: traditions and history, with one floor of exhibit space devoted to each.

Traditions and Culture

Good works at the Jewish Children's Museum
Visiting the ill (and writing get-well cards)

We started on the traditions floor. The first thing a visitor sees leaving the elevator is the “World of Good,” which explores Judaism’s view of good acts. Things like visiting the sick, respecting your parents, being kind to animals, giving to charity, not letting things go to waste, all illustrated in more or less interactive ways. I found this a smart way to approach Judaism, since, yes, these are specifically Jewish requirements, but they’re also things that any kid from any background will recognize and understand.

From there, visitors proceed to a kosher grocery store and kitchen. I’ve observed before and I’ll observe here again, kids love playing store, and children’s museums tend to support future retail careers. 

Sabbath and Holidays

Past the kosher supermarket, other areas on the traditions floor cover:

  • A hallway timeline that quickly and dramatically covers the six days of the creation of the world. Which logically ends at the seventh day and…
  • A Shabbat dinner, featuring candles, a giant challah kids can crawl through, and an equally Wine screen in a wineglass, Jewish Children's Museumgiant matzoh ball soup (no swimming). I watched an animated, talking bottle of wine in a video embedded in a ginormous wineglass, something I’ve never encountered at another children’s museum.
  • A gamified explanation of what you can and can’t do on the sabbath, and how that’s changed over time. This installation featured myriad lights and buttons, reminding me of Mission Control, if the mission were staying on the right side of the law.

Sabbath dos and don'ts through time, Jewish Children's Museum

New Year for Trees, Jewish Children's MuseumThe Traditions floor culminates in an impressively thorough overview of the Jewish holidays, designed as a village. Naturally it includes holidays like Hannukah and Yom Kippur and Passover that I reckon almost any New Yorker will know. And it also covers ones that I know less well but am fascinated by. Tu B’Shevat, the New Year of trees, features a somewhat creepy and ent-like animated tree, who explains that holiday.

5,786 Years of History on One Floor

The other floor of exhibits focuses on Jewish history, starting with Abraham’s tent in the desert with its four doors. Enter the tent and visitors meet Sarah (Abraham’s wife, not my tour guide), who welcomes them. She says she knows they’ve traveled far, most likely including by elevator. Which made me smile.

40 Years in the desert, Jewish Children's Museum
Are we there yet?

From there, the visitor follows a roughly chronological path through Biblical Jewish history. Highlights for me included:

  • The aforementioned Exodus escape room,
  • A fun light-up map illustrating the 40 years of wandering in the desert, and
  • An interactive moment where guests must cooperatively “blow” seven shofar to make the walls of Jericho fall.
Shofars and Jericho (post walls falling), Jewish Children's Museum
Jericho, after the walls fell

A section on the Land of Israel follows, and then “Sages Through the Ages,” a gallery that discusses the canon of Jewish law and the great scholars who have set the tone of interpreting the Talmud and the Mishna over the centuries.  Even here I was impressed by how the curators have found ways to take a rather dry, academic topic (for me anyway) and bring it to life through animation and interactivity.

Tackling the Holocaust

The floor concludes with more recent Jewish history, as well as a fun Noah’s Ark play area for very young kids. I wondered how, if at all, a children’s museum would attempt to tackle the Holocaust. You kind of have to, right? But, it’s impossible to tell how much parents or teachers might or might not have told young visitors about that chapter of history, and also difficult to level-set for disparate ages and maturity levels. 

Ghetto exhibit, Jewish Children's Museum

Amidst the walk through Jewish history, there’s a grey wall that looks like a ghetto. A small hallway behind that wall features phone receivers, small images, and a few artifacts. The space is less about what happened to six million Jews, and more about how people going through that unimaginable time did their best to keep their traditions alive. 

Building a menorah out of scavenged spoons, finding ways to keep Kosher, baking matzoh at a time and place when being caught doing so was a death sentence. The stark space marks a strong visual departure from the colorful design and carnival atmosphere that pervades the rest of the museum. It’s a good indicator of the care and thought that went into JCM’s design.

Activity, Interactivity, and Hyperactivity

We wrapped up my tour of the museum upstairs, with, unexpectedly, a small climbing wall that, as a kid moves horizontally across it, recaps the history lessons from downstairs. And an outdoor terrace offers a 6-hole mini-golf course that covers the major milestones of Jewish life. A hole under a huppah for marriage, that sort of thing. I regret not playing the bar mitzvah hole, so that I could proudly tell everyone I have become a man.

Mini Golf, Jewish Children's Museum

Finally, we stopped into the temporary exhibition this summer. Kosher Wonderland offers an indoor, food-themed play area. Kids can enjoy a veggie ball-pit, a fishmongers where they can sort kosher from non-kosher plush sea creatures, slide down a giant inflatable cake, and much more. Not a single bacon double cheeseburger as far as the eye can see. 

Kosher Wonderland at Jewish Children's Museum

The curators and designers of the JCM took care to pack in both activity (to burn off excess energy) and interactivity (to help hold attention spans). Everything has a gamified, interactive element. The lesson on the seven fruits of Israel takes the form of a water gun game, where visitors can compete to get their chosen produce basket to the top first. (Go, pomegranate!)

The 7 Fruits of the Holy Land, Gamified, Jewish Children's Museum
The Seven Fruits of the Holy Land, gamified. I’m team pomegranate all the way

Keeping up with the kids today

Sages through the ages, Jewish Children's MuseumSarah Leah and I talked about how some of the exhibit designs from twenty years ago are showing their age. Mainly that relates to attention spans. Some of the videos and other interactive elements feel long to young visitors today, where they did not back in 2004. And fashions and tastes have changed enough in the past couple of decades that some of the videos look dated. (Though not as dated as the unintentionally hilarious biopic of young “Teedie” at the Theodore Roosevelt House.) Finally, a number of screens at the museum are just screens, and of course everyone (kids especially) tends to assume that every screen today is a touchscreen. Updating installations, exhibits, and videos to keep up with changing times challenges all museums, regardless of topic or target audience. 

Kids being, universally, sticky little monsters, they sometimes treat the exhibits and displays roughly. So not every installation works all the time. But that’s to be expected given the audience. I was more impressed by how much worked, and how cleverly the museum uses different kinds of interactivity. And I deeply prefer good, old-fashioned, mechanical, and tangible displays to exhibits where everything is digital and screen-based.

Who is the Jewish Children’s Museum for?

Sarah Leah and I also discussed the unique challenges posed by the varying audiences that the JCM addresses. Kids as the core audience, of course, and simultaneously the grown-ups who have to interpret and hopefully also feel engaged by the place. But it also has to serve both Jewish visitors and non-Jewish ones (and both kids and grown-ups in each category).. Curators would have an easier time if JCM just spoke to people in the know, but it has to be approachable and engaging to people who don’t know anything about Judaism, while not being too basic for those who grew up immersed in the history, culture, laws, and traditions.

Find the leavened bread, Passover display, Jewish Children's Museum
Find the leavened bread before Passover!

As a New Yorker for over 30 years, I think I can claim a little Jewishness by cultural osmosis. I’m at least superficially familiar with many of the traditions and the Bible stories covered by the museum. But I learned a lot, too. Sukkot, for example, has always been a bit of a mystery to me, to say nothing of tree new year.

The plants you need for Sukkot
Selecting the four species for Sukkot

Should you visit the Jewish Children’s Museum?

Anyone with kids around 8-12 should consider checking out the JCM. Its exhibits are well thought out, cleverly designed, and a lot more fun than I expected. I think the Jewish Children’s Museum potentially has an opportunity to institute periodic grown-up nights for curious non-Jewish New Yorkers who want to learn more about Judaism but don’t have a good place. Unless that happens, though, please only visit if you have kids with you.

Heads up that the Brooklyn Children’s Museum is also in Crown Heights. I didn’t love it, and the size and scale of both BCM and JCM would make for a very ambitious, dense single day, both for grown-ups and kids.

When I mentioned the Exodus escape room to my circle of work friends, they thought it would make an interesting team-building exercise. None of us is Jewish, but we’re all New Yorkers to varying degrees. And we’ve all seen “The Ten Commandments,” or at least “The Prince of Egypt.” So maybe I’ll  get to take a shot at parting the Red Sea.

Rebecca at the Well, Jewish Children's Museum
Rebekah at the well

 

For Reference:

Address 792 Eastern Parkway, Brooklyn
Website jcm.museum
Cost  General Admission:  $17 for adults; $19 for kids
Other Relevant Links

 

Bronx Children’s Museum

Edification value 3/5
Entertainment value 4/5
Should you go? 3/5
Time spent 52 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned Any good children’s museum needs a some quiet spaces to balance the rambunctious ones. Bronx Children’s Museum, has named one of these quiet spaces Sonia’s Corner. As with so many museum halls and galleries, it’s named after someone, though in this case not a plutocrat or gajillionaire donor. And, actually, not one person but two. Two of the most prominent advocates for the BxCM happen to be named Sonia. Supreme Court Justice Sonia Sotomayor is one. Sonia Manzano, actor and author, is the other. “Sonia Who?” you’re probably thinking. You know her, though. For the past half-century and more, she’s played Maria from Sesame Street. 

It’s just a room, essentially (a nice room!).  I didn’t even take a photo of it. But think about these two Sonias. One shaping the laws of the country and the other an unfamiliar name but someone who everybody who grew up with a TV in the last 50+ years knows and loves. Any corner that brings those two Sonias together is a good corner.

A Power House Museum

The Bronx Children’s Museum (BxCM for short) occupies the second floor of a castle-looking, century-old brick building in Mill Pond Park, a, skinny stretch of land sandwiched between the overpass of the Major Deegan Expressway and the Harlem River.

Bronx Children's Museum - Exterior

The building has a fascinating history, so I’m going to digress for a minute. Mill Pond Park, on the bank of the river, exists on the site of the former Bronx Terminal Market, which opened in the 1920s as one of the city’s main wholesale food markets. The Power House, built in 1923, generated electricity to provide refrigeration for the market. So, the fact that it now houses a museum makes it a sort of sibling to the Tate Modern in London.

Bronx Children's Museum - View from afarLike so many things in the Bronx, Bronx Terminal Market went into decline, rendered obsolete by the larger and more modern Hunts Point Market. This entire area fell into disuse and decay. Its rebirth happened because of nearby Yankee Stadium. 

When the City firmed up the plan to build the new Yankee Stadium (it opened in 2009), it set aside $64 million from the project to build Mill Pond Park on the former market’s riverfront land. Almost $14 million of that funding went to restore the Power House, which today houses a tennis center, restrooms, and office space. And it also provides the home for the Bronx Children’s Museum.Bronx Children's Museum - Exterior

A Nomadic Museum Puts Down Roots

The Bronx Children’s Museum was founded in 2005. For the first five years it lived a nomadic existence, putting on events and doing community outreach. A conceptual museum, rather than a physical one. It graduated from there to being a mobile museum-in-a-bus, and then in late 2022, after over a decade of planning and development, it opened in its permanent home in the Power House.

Bronx Children's Museum - interior view

BxCM occupies over 10,000 square feet on the second floor. Its design follows the modern aesthetic of high ceilings and exposed ductwork, with large windows looking out at the river, and abundant amounts of beautiful blond, knotty, engineered wood that forms interior walls and, in places, floors and ceilings as well. The spaces are curvy and flow organically, defining areas without dividing the space. Doors and walls close off a few rooms (like Sonia’s Corner and classrooms), but mostly visitors can see the whole space from any point in it.

Bronx Children's Museum - Restroom
BxCM – restroom

Every corner of BxCM is designed to engage and delight. Even the stairwell, which is bright and lively, and the restrooms, which pay homage to the Bronx River… I imagine using the bathroom there feels a bit like peeing outside).

Arguably, I didn’t see the museum at its best, visiting after hours on a Friday afternoon. John Boudreau, BxCM’s Director of Strategic Partnerships & Branding was kind enough to give me a private tour. For my past children’s museum visits (Manhattan, Staten Island, Brooklyn), I’ve borrowed friends’ kids, but nobody was available for this visit. BxCM has strict and totally understandable rules: neither unaccompanied adults nor unaccompanied children are allowed. Bronx Children's Museum - Stairway

That said, I didn’t have a hard time imagining the place buzzing with young ones. If I’m honest, having it to myself, not filled with noisy, sticky little monsters, was fine by me. I am deeply grateful for the tour, and I felt lucky for the time talking with John about the purpose and role of children’s museums generally, as well as the role that this specific one plays for its community.

John also told me that at the end of each museum session it holds a parade. All the visitors march through the space to say good-bye to it. I am a little sorry I didn’t get to see one of those. And I sort of wish the Metropolitan Museum of Art would adopt the custom.

The Space

BxCM uses its curvy spaces well. One section focuses on sciency stuff. It includes a few small critters in aquariums, and a build-your-own beaver lodge, since beavers once lived on the Bronx River (and occasionally still do). The biggest and fanciest exhibit presents a river in miniature, with actual water. Cloud shaped fixtures rain water down to a long, winding table where kids can learn about canal locks, build bridges, and float boats downstream to the ocean. I wanted to play with it very much.

Bronx Children's Museum - river experience
BxCM’s miniature river

Another space replicates elements of a Bronx neighborhood, with a casita, shop facades, a vegetable garden, and a “book bodega.” Playing store is a common feature to children’s museums. It’s odd to me, though there’s nothing wrong with preparing for a job in retail.

Other spaces encourage kids to stretch their creativity. An enchanted garden has costumes for pretend and storytelling. An artist’s studio recreates the actual studio of children’s book illustrator C.G. Esperanza. (Esperanza also did the art for the stores in the neighborhood.).

Bronx Children's Museum - art space

And of course,, there are also those quiet spaces, like Sonia’s Room, and a dedicated space reserved for toddlers and very young children, who may not be ready to navigate waterways or operate a retail establishment.

Books Abound

Throughout the whole museum, books abound. Sonia’s Room, the young kids’ space, other nooks and corners all are stocked with them. I appreciated how much this museum stresses the value of sitting down and reading — or being read to. John Boudreau observed to me that the Bronx had no dedicated children’s bookstore until the Book Bodega within the museum opened. He also said that BxCM has given away over 5,000 books since opening.Bronx Children's Museum - Book Bodega

Like all children’s museums, BxCM has to speak to kids directly, but also to parents and caregivers. Each section of the museum includes ideas for “Play” “Learn” and “Go” geared for adults. They suggest things kids can do in the space, things they can learn there, and then other places in the Bronx or around the City to see the ideas in action. And, it almost goes without saying, all the museum’s signage is bilingual English and Spanish.

Should You Visit the Bronx Children’s Museum?

For a Manhattanite, the Bronx Children’s Museum is not the easiest place to get to via mass transit. If you have a kid, or you are a kid yourself, is the Bronx Children’s Museum a place worth visiting?  

I think it’s well worth a visit. The design, the way it executes its mission, its love for its young patrons and empathy for their parents and guardians all impress. Like the Bronx Museum of the Arts, it welcomes people who may not think museums are for them. John told me that some people bring their kids weekly, or even more often. Though I am not in BxCM’s target demographic, I’m still glad that it exists to make its young visitors more aware of the nature and cultures of the Bronx, of New York City, and of the world.

Bronx Children's Museum - Entry

Finally, just south of the Bronx Children’s Museum is the future home of the Hip Hop Museum. That institution should open sometime in 2026. I’ve been excited about it for years! I’m not sure it’ll make a strong double-bill with BxCM, but I bet the two neighbor museums will devise awesomely creative joint programs.

For Reference:

Address 725 Exterior Street, 2nd Floor, Bronx, New York
Website https://www.bxcm.org/
Cost  General Admission:  $14 for adults, $8 for kids
Other Relevant Links

 

Studio Museum in Harlem

Edification value 4/5
Entertainment value 3/5
Should you go? 3/5
Time spent 115 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned The new building lets the museum show off far more of its collection than it could before. And yet, the best thing I saw this visit is the same as it was in 2017. Barkley L. Hendricks’s captivating “Lawdy Mama” from 1969 is an extraordinary portrait. The Frick Collection, of all places, gave Hendricks a fantastic exhibit while it was in the Breuer Building.

I visited the new Studio Museum in Harlem back before Christmas. This re-review has taken a while to write, but I figured I had better get it in before the end of Black History Month, so here it is, barely beating my deadline. My 2017 review of the old Studio Museum is here.

Studio Museum in Harlem Facade

The Studio Museum in Harlem is an art museum in, yes, Harlem in Manhattan. Its mission statement says the museum serves as “the nexus for artists of African descent locally, nationally, and internationally and for work that has been inspired and influenced by Black culture.”

I joked in my original take on the Studio Museum that, like Chief Brody said in Jaws, they’re gonna need a bigger boat. Well, they got one.

The museum formerly occupied lovingly converted, quirky, too-small space in an old building on 125th Street. It closed in 2018, tore the old building down, and finally re-opened in November of 2025 in a spiffy new building created just for it. Was it worth waiting seven years and a pandemic for a new version of the museum? Maybe.

Continue reading “Studio Museum in Harlem”

Paley Center Museum

Edification value 2/5
Entertainment value 3/5
Should you go? 2/5
Time spent 53 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned Super Bowl ads - AppleThe Super Bowl exhibit’s walk down advertising memory lane was deeply nostalgic to me. Amid Cindy Crawford selling Pepsi and a baby selling a brokerage, Apple’s 1984 ad, introducing the Mac, stands out as possibly the most revered commercial of all time. Also, why did anyone think Spuds McKenzie was a good idea?

Once Upon a Paley

Once upon a time, New York City was home to a Museum of Broadcasting. In 1975, William S. Paley founded an institution to preserve TV and radio programming. (The other company he founded was CBS.) In 1976, his Museum of Broadcasting opened its doors. “Broadcasting” feels like a technological fossil these days, appropriate for a museum. But it was the heart and soul of society in the late 20th century. 

Paley Center for MediaIn 1991, the institution renamed itself the Museum of Television & Radio, since even then increasing amounts of TV was distributed in ways that had nothing to do with “broadcasting.” The same year the museum moved into a fun, Philip Johnson-designed post-modernist building, which is meant to resemble an old-timey radio. 

In the early 2000s the museum rebranded as the Paley Center for Media. For a decade or so it offered a library and an event space known for putting on interesting talks with the television creators and stars. Recently, however, the Paley Center re-opened its museum, so of course I visited.

The Paley Center today has a medium-sized gallery space on its ground floor, and a small space upstairs. It’s also home to a video game gallery (available for rental for kids’ parties) and a library containing video monitors where visitors can access any of 160,000 television and radio programs and ads in the collection. So, it’s kind of like Hulu.

TOld time televisionshe current iteration of the Paley Museum doesn’t have a permanent collection, although there are a few adorable antique TV sets on display in the library. Instead, it hosts temporary exhibitions on timely topics. To wit, when I visited in early February, the Super Bowl. And, in a nod to Black History Month, props and costumes from the Nat Geo “Genius” miniseries about Malcolm X and Martin Luther King, Jr., in a modest second floor gallery.

The Gridiron

They really got into football

The Super Bowl took over the Paley Center the day I visited, one week before the Chiefs and 49ers faced off. The entry space featured a huge video screen showing highlights of halftime musical performances, and the elevator lobby was fully wrapped, and included Katy Perry’s halftime show outfit (from XLIV), along a shark and a beach ball.Katy Perry's halftime show costume, plus shark and beach ball

As befits a museum of broadcasting, the exhibit was less about the game of football itself, and more about the unofficial secular holiday and cultural phenomenon the Super Bowl has evolved into, with growing mass audiences, iconic advertising, and the previously mentioned halftime show spectacular, all getting at least as much attention as the games themselves. 

The curators took a sensible chronological approach, with stats on each of the LVIII games along the top (who played, final score, TV audience size).  Wall texts offered details on how the Super Bowl evolved, with images and video. Artifacts livened things up: balls and jerseys, helmets, playbooks, and, climax of the exhibition, the actual Vince Lombardi Trophy. (A reproduction belonging to the New York Giants was on display the day I visited, as the actual Trophy had important duties off in Vegas.).

Game balls and winning moments
This exhibit had a lot of balls

Downstairs, another space featured a selection of game balls, as well as a chunk of the set from the Super Bowl LV Halftime Show, with a choice of sparkling red jackets, should visitors wish to cosplay as The Weeknd. I did not see anyone do that while I was there. And the Paley Center’s theater ran historic Super Bowl games and/or ads, in case visitors wanted to revisit past high points.

Madonna's Half Time Show, Super Bowl XLVI, 2012
Football is a mystery…

Curatorial Questions

The exhibition was co-presented by the NFL and the Pro Football Hall of Fame. I suspect that is why all signs of Super Bowl controversy were scrubbed out of the narrative. Janet Jackson and Justin Timberlake were absent from the big halftime show screen. Not a word about concussions, either. Or team names that seem leftovers from an earlier, cruder era.

The exhibit made much of the patriotism of Super Bowl XXXVI in 2002. 9/11 casualties’ names streamed on a screen behind U2 at Halftime, which feels a little cringe-y now. However, it said nothing about players taking a knee during the National Anthem in the wake of Black Lives Matter. Ironic, given that Black History Month was the other thing the Paley Center was ostensibly honoring when I visited.

I would have hoped for some acknowledgement that the Super Bowl isn’t an unalloyed marvel. It’s possible to celebrate something even while acknowledging its flaws, and their exclusion is a notable miss.

Paley Center Super Bowl exhibit
Nothing but good times and soaring audiences and ad revenues here…

Should you visit the Paley Center Museum?

Unless you’re an old-school TV fan, or some sort of insane museum completist, it’s hard to recommend the Paley Center. Twenty bucks is a high price for the relatively small museum space, so it’s not worth just dropping in.

The institution knows its mass-media subject better than just about anyone else. But its “rah-rah, no problems here” approach to the Super Bowl exhibit, although fun, raises questions of objectivity and curation. Even if a future exhibition subject were to interest me, I’d wonder who was shaping the content, and what kind of slant it might have.

If you want a museum of popular culture, the Museum of Broadway in Times Square, the Museum of the Moving Image in Queens and the exhibit spaces at the Performing Arts Library at Lincoln Center are all far more worth your time and money.

Bethpage Long Island rates the Paley Center "best of New York City"Then again, the town of Bethpage on Long Island, which for some reason feels qualified to weigh in on New York City museums, rated the Paley Center a “best museum and best children’s party place” in New York in 2023. So…you may want to take that into account as you evaluate whether you should visit.

The Paley Center’s library of 160,000 old television shows and commercials was revolutionary in the early 90s. In today’s world of infinite streaming, it’s much less impressive. Speaking of old commercials, it reminds me of this 1999 ad from a long-defunct phone company. I suspect there’s much old television programming on the Paley Center hard drives that’s not available anywhere else. Maybe there are lost treasures waiting for a reboot. Or maybe it’s just a lot of poorly acted, standard definition time wasters brimming with casual racism and outdated views of women. I think I’ll stick with Hulu.

For Reference:

Address 25 West 52nd Street, Manhattan
Website https://www.paleycenter.org/
Cost  General Admission:  $20
Other Relevant Links

 

Museum of Broadway

Edification value 4/5
Entertainment value
Should you go? 3/5
Time spent 137 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned The “Oklahoma!” exhibit contains a small, framed, handwritten scrap of paper that contains every rhyme Oscar Hammerstein could think of for “surry,” including “occur he,” “furry,” “chauffeur-y,” and “arbitrury” [sic]. It’s not my favorite song but the peek it provides into his songwriting process delights me. 

Attempts to rhyme by Oscar Hammerstein

When I discovered New York was getting a Museum of Broadway my first reaction was “Wait, why don’t we have one of those already?” It seems an obvious and overdue subject for a New York museum. I felt a little on the fence about it given my aversion to “museum in name only” experiential entertainment offerings. If they hand out flyers for it in Times Square, and charge $69 for “daily anytime entry,” can it be a legitimate museum? But, I figured I should take a look.

The Museum of Broadway is appropriately on West 45th Street between 6th Avenue and Broadway. It would be amazing if it were in a defunct theater, but instead it occupies four windowless floors of what I’d guess used to be office space. Very friendly staff greet visitors on the ground floor, then send them up three flights of stairs (there’s an elevator if needed) to start the museum experience.

Ease on down the exhaustive wall timeline

Like an IKEA, visitors to the Museum of Broadway follow a very directed journey. While people can meander at their own pace, there’s only ever one way to go. Instead of a series of gallery spaces, the bulk of a Museum of Broadway visit consists of a sequence of rooms and hallways that offer a chronological tour of the New York theater scene from its earliest days to the present. 

Visitors arrive at the top floor and spend a quick minute getting a welcome from a docent and a quick quiz: What makes a Broadway theater a Broadway theater? That’s followed by a welcome video promoting the awesomeness of live theater, and then visitors are turned loose at  the start of the timeline, in about 1890.

The earliest history of theater/theatre in New York CityThe timeline panels are text heavy and extremely detailed. Some of the early ones distinguish between plays and musicals, but later panels tend to run together, as though the curators realized they were running out of both time and space. No sane visitor has a prayer of reading all of them. Rather, I suppose, you just look for things that catch your eye, favorite shows or stars, or key moments in Broadway history. Frank Langella in Seascape, 1975, at the Museum of Broadway

For example, in the midst of a busy panel covering the mid-1970s I was stopped in my tracks by a picture of Frank Langella and Maureen Ackerman dressed as giant lizards (!) in a 1975 Edward Albee (!!) play called “Seascape” that somehow won the Pulitzer Prize (!!!). If more Broadway shows had giant lizards in them, I’d probably see more Broadway shows. “Godzilla: The Musical,” anyone?

Timeline sections are very smartly punctuated by installations related to specific shows or (in a few cases) people. These feature specially commissioned art, actual costumes, props, or other artifacts, and occasionally video interviews and interactive features. And, perhaps inevitably, prompts that this spot or that spot would be great opportunities to take a selfie.

Stars of the show

These show-focused installations were generally fantastic. I won’t spoil them all, but will share a few personal highlights.

Museum of Broadway: Sondheim wordplay

  • An anagram crossword puzzle that makes a fitting tribute to Stephen Sondheim.Museum of Broadway: Lion King costume
  • A couple of Julie Taymor’s fantastic puppets from “The Lion King.”
  • In honor of the longest-running show in Broadway history, an art piece consisting of 13,981 crystals (one for each performance!) suspended in such a way that if you stand in the exact right spot they form the Phantom of the Opera’s mask. As obsessive and magical as Andrew Lloyd Webber himself.

Museum of Broadway: the Phantom in crystals

 

Acts II and III

Museum of Broadway: Hamilton swagThe timeline sequence is quite long, taking up the first two floors of the museum. Eventually visitors arrive at the present, which features a model set for “Wicked” and a couple of costumes from “Hamilton.” That makes this the most self-referential entry yet on the Hamilton Museum Tour of NYC. (Other notable stops include Hamilton Grange, the Morris-Jumel Mansion, and Trinity Church.)

The timeline ends with a few empty columns for 2023, 2024, and 2025, suggesting that either the museum, Broadway, New York City, humanity, or the planet only has a few years to go. We’ll see.

I wonder about the amount of time and space spent on Broadway’s relatively ancient history. Broadway’s post-90s, post-Disney renaissance felt rushed, which I found odd given that’s the era most visitors are most likely to know and connect with.  

Museum of Broadway: props. Specifically, sausages
Prop sausages

The floor below the timeline sections shifts gears. It combines multimedia, interactive displays, and artifacts to break down all the behind-the-scenes parts of a production.  Different sections illuminate writing, props, costumes, scenery, lighting, and all the rest of the many pieces that make up a theatrical production.

For those who dream of producing, directing, or even marketing (yep, marketers get love, too) a show, this section provides provides immense, even overwhelming, amounts of information on how the sausage gets made.Museum of Broadway: all about costume designers

Visitors then descend one final staircase to the ground floor and exit through an inevitable gift shop.

Museum of Broadway: Exit through the gift shop

Should you visit the Museum of Broadway?

Museum of Broadway: all the roles that go into making a theater productionThe Museum of Broadway was created with passion and love — obsession may not be too strong a word — for its subject. This is a place geared for people who love the theater, and who already know something about it. On the other hand, total novices may be bewildered or bored. Moreover, although worlds better than those cynical, experiential quasi-museums that separate tourists from their money, this is unquestionably one of New York’s most expensive museums.

Nonetheless, the Museum of Broadway delivers a mix of erudition, surprises and delights, and showbiz pizazz. I’m not the biggest Broadway fan and still spent over two engaging hours there. Anyone who was a theater kid in high school, who gets excited when they get tickets to a show, or who has a shoebox full of old Playbills, will find a visit worthwhile.

That said, I do mean “a visit.” The biggest downside to the timeline layout is it makes for a fairly static experience. There is a small space for temporary exhibits. Currently it features “Chicago,” which at 26 years is (post-Phantom) Broadway’s longest running show. But unless the curators find ways to change things up periodically, I’m not sure that even big Broadway fans will feel much need to see this show a second time.

Museum of Broadway: Lifecycle of a Broadway Show

For Reference:

Address 145 West 45th Street, Manhattan
Website https://www.themuseumofbroadway.com/
Cost General Admission:  $34-$41 or more (!!) My advice: take advantage of the discount on Tuesdays and avoid the service charge by not buying tickets in advance.
Other Relevant Links

 

Hispanic Society of America

Edification value 4/5
Entertainment value 3/5
Should you go? 3/5
Time spent 60 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned Sorolla’s entire mural series (which I write about below) was easily the best thing. However if I had to pick just one panel, I’d go with Seville/The Dance, which evokes Carmen… the happy, carefree parts, not the stabby misogynistic ones. My little internet photo does not do it justice!

Joaquín Sorolla, Seville, The Dance, from the Hispanic Society mural series

Note: I first visited the Hispanic Society in May of 2022. I revised my review in July 2023 as the Society has continued its reopening. The original review is here.

Iberian Dreams…

Like many other institutions around New York City, the Hispanic Society of America was founded by a rich guy who became obsessed with something. Think Gustav Heye and what is now the New York branch of the Smithsonian’s Museum of the American Indian, or Mr. Frick’s collection or Mr. Morgan’s library… Occasionally it was an obsessed rich woman, like Jacques Marchais’s thing for Tibetan Art or the artistic passions of Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney

In the case of the Hispanic Society, the rich dude was Archer Milton Huntington. And the obsession was the art of the Iberian peninsula. Archer Milton Huntington opened his Spanish Museum in 1908, though he’d dreamed of having a museum of some kind since he was a boy. Born very rich, the story goes that as a young man Huntington fell in love with Hispanic art on a visit to Mexico, which sparked many trips to Spain, learning Spanish as well as Arabic, and becoming both a connoisseur of and an expert in the art and culture.

Hispanic Society Museum and Library, Exterior, New York

 

The Hispanic Society is located in a splendid Beaux-Arts building in Harlem, part of the Audubon Terrace campus. It’s an interesting quirk of fate that Spanish is much more likely to be spoken in the museum’s neighborhood today than when it opened there over a century ago. The beautiful old building is a blessing and a curse: the museum closed for a massive renovation shortly before I started my museum project back in 2017, and remained closed until 2022.

Recently, the Hispanic Society entered the second phase of its reopening, following the teaser “we’re back” exhibition that I saw in its basement last year.

Hispanic Society Main Entrance (under construction)

Soto and Sorolla

The Hispanic Society has now reopened two spaces: its Main Court and the Sorolla Room. The Main Court has two levels (though only the ground floor is currently open) and is something like a roofed-over medieval cloister, featuring an open space surrounded by ornate archways and a small corridor running around the perimeter under the mezzanine. It is an exciting space, though its relatively small size limits what the Society can exhibit there.

Hispanic Society interior

Nevertheless, the cleverness of the Hispanic Society’s reopening exhibit belied its small space.

Joaquín Sorolla y Bastida was a famous Spanish painter (“the most esteemed and renowned Spanish painter of his era,” per a wall text) who died in 1923. Jesús Soto was a Venezuelan abstractionist who made highly formal geometric sculptures who was born in 1923. That coincidental birth/death centennial year provides a somewhat tenuous justification for exhibiting their work together. However, each artist was interesting in his own right, and together they bridge the old Hispanic Society/ new Hispanic Society philosophy regarding curation and collecting.

That philosophy, by the way, has evolved from a focus mainly on the Old World to including the New, and from classic and retrospective to embracing contemporary work.

Hispanic Society's Sorolla and Soto exhibit, 2023, New York

 

I appreciated the way the Hispanic Society installed Sorolla’s bourgeois society portraits in the arches of its Main Court. Floating in space they echoed the 3D, geometric, sculptural layering of Soto’s work.

Jesús Rafael Soto, Untitled

The Sorolla Room

The Sorolla Room is something else. Much like the Spanish Inquisition, I was not expecting it. Back in 1909, the Hispanic Society held the first major US exhibit of Joaquín Sorolla’s work. Based on the success of that show, Archer Milton Huntington commissioned Sorolla to create a series of murals depicting life in España, installed in the eponymous room.

Joaquín Sorolla y Bastida's Vision of Spain murals at The Hispanic Society

The murals are a delight — packed with regional detail. Colorful and exotic, they combine mundane scenes with holidays and festivals. I might feel concern that they’re a bit too exoticizing, but, hey, Sorolla was Spanish, I think it’s safe to assume he knew what he was painting. I want to take a guided tour of these murals, or at least come back and visit many more times.

The  Hispanic Society installed another exhibit in the Sorolla room, entitled “Jewels in a Gem,” featuring the work of Luz Camino, a contemporary Spanish jewelry designer. This worked surprisingly well. The installation was designed to leave the murals unimpeded and the jewelry complemented what was on the walls — sometimes directly. For example, I appreciated the fishbone earrings in a case juxtaposed with a fish market scene.

Luz Camino, fishbone earrings at the Hispanic Society

Fish Market from Sorolla's Vision of Spain murals, Hispanic SocietyCamino’s work reminds me of early 20th century jewelry by Lalique or Cartier. It draws heavily on nature, but also has a healthy dose of humor. I don’t know who would want enamel and gold earrings lovingly shaped into popcorn, but I respect that person.

Although full of beautiful things, my one nitpick is the exhibit would have been richer had it included some of Camino’s notebooks, design sketches, and other preparatory work — I love seeing inside a designer’s creative process. 

Luz Camino, popcorn earrings

Should You Visit the Hispanic Society Museum?

I’m excited that the Hispanic Society has continued its return to life as a museum. Its important collection and beautiful building are invaluable restorations to the New York’s cultural fabric. 

With this phase of its reopening, the Hispanic Society has gone from being “worth a quick stop if you happen to be in that part of Harlem” (quoting myself from 2022) to being well worth a trip. The Sorolla murals are arguably the closest thing Manhattan offers to a visit to Spain. (Mercado Little Spain at Hudson Yards is the other contender…)

The Hispanic Society would make a good combination with the splendid Morris-Jumel Mansion, both historic buildings. It is also close to the Sugar Hill Children’s Museum of Art and Storytelling if you’ve got kids in tow. 

Hispanic Society of America Stairway
Upstairs coming soon (I hope)

I chatted with a friendly guard who said that the Society expects to have more gallery space open by autumn. I’m already excited about making another visit.

Hopefully part of the longer-term plan will make the pleasant piazza of Audubon Terrace more inviting, too. An al fresco café or tapas bar would be fantastic there (where’s José Andrés when you need him?!). Sculptures on the terrace immortalize Don Quixote (yay), the conquistadors (boo), and El Cid (I think he’s a “yay” but your mileage may vary…). The terrace was once a sort of Lincoln Center of cultural institutions, featuring the American Indian Museum, the American Numismatic Society, and the American Academy of Arts and Letters. That last one is still there, and occasionally open for exhibitions, too.

Audubon Terrace Plaza
El Cid, by Anna Hyatt Huntington

 

For Reference:

Address 613 W 155th Street, Manhattan
Website hispanicsociety.org
Cost  General Admission:  Free
Other relevant links

 

Brooklyn Children’s Museum

Edification value 2/5
Entertainment value 3/5
Should you go? 2/5
Time spent 100 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned The museum includes a small exhibit on homes in Brooklyn. I liked this model townhouse showing how it evolved over the 170 years since it was built.Brownstone history at Brooklyn Children's Museum

Founded in 1899, the Brooklyn Children’s Museum claims to be the oldest children’s museum in the world. However, it hides its age well, and the casual visitor would probably have no idea. Clad in bright yellow tile, the building’s very modern (and somewhat anonymous and uninviting) facade doesn’t give much away in terms of what’s going on inside.

Rafael Viñoly Architects designed the building, an expansion that opened in 2008, making it one of two New York City children’s museums with starchitect cred. (David Adjaye’s Sugar Hill Children’s Museum of Art and Storytelling is the other.)

Brooklyn Children's Museum - Facade

Inside Out

It turns out that’s going on inside is a shrunk down, semi-educational version of what’s going on outside. A significant part of the Brooklyn Children’s Museum recreates an eclectic, idealized Brooklyn shopping street, with various hands-on activities to keep young folk engaged, while preparing them for future careers in retail.

Brooklyn Children's Museum - Streetscape

There’s an African market, a pizzeria, a Caribbean travel agency, a grocery store… all providing opportunities for roleplaying and, possibly, absorbing points about the diverse cultures that comprise the rich tapestry that is Brooklyn.

Brooklyn Children's Museum
Let’s go shopping

 

Fake Waterfront; Real Loud

Another section has a small display of live, bored-looking reptiles and other small critters. Continuing onward, a third part featured a fake waterfront, with a fake boat, fake pilings, and real sand.

Brooklyn Children's Museum - fake beach

Elsewhere in the museum was an exhibit called Sound Field. This boasted a ginormous and overwhelmingly cacophonous looking contraption. Never have I been happier to see a hands-on display be hands-off and closed for repairs. This museum was plenty loud even without that.

Brooklyn Children's Museum sound display
Cacophony rendered concrete

Possibly the best part of the Viñoly building is the roof, which features wide open outdoor space with a soaring canopy. It lacks the playground of the Staten Island Children’s Museum, but as a place for adults to possibly find some respite from being in close quarters with zillions of noisy little monsters, I appreciated it.

Brooklyn Children's Museum - Terrace

Should you visit the Brooklyn Children’s Museum?

Discussing this museum with friends, my joke was, “It could be a great museum, it’s just a shame there are all those kids in it.” But upon consideration, I actually think it could be a great museum, it’s just a shame there’s all that Brooklyn in it.

While its emphatic Brooklyn-ness is charming, the Brooklyn Children’s Museum feels like a missed opportunity. I think that the best kids’ museums transport their young clients to new worlds: places they have dreamed about or seen on television or never even heard of before. The museum’s website talks about a collection that encompasses “30,000 natural history and cultural objects ranging from Paleolithic to ancient to modern day, making the collection an encyclopedia of cultures across the globe.” But I didn’t see much of that. I’m guessing it’s mostly in storage for lack of alignment with contemporary Brooklyn’s cultures and values. What is on display, like the African art below, seems perfunctory and jumbled together and not particularly kid-friendly in its curation.

Brooklyn Children's Museum

That’s not to say it’s not fun. The kids I attended with had a great time, running from one storefront activity to the next. I’m not sure any of the intended diversity, tolerance, or other messages had a chance to sink in, but fun was had. However, if you want to engage and inspire the kids in your care, there are better museums in New York.

For Reference:

Address 145 Brooklyn Avenue, Crown Heights, Brooklyn
Website https://www.brooklynkids.org/
Cost General Admission:  $13. Kids pay the same price as grown-ups; grandparents get to save a buck.
Other Relevant Links

 

Hispanic Society of America

Edification value 2/5
Entertainment value 2/5
Should you go? 2/5
Time spent 33 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned It’s a predictable choice but Hispanic Society’s Goya, “The Duchess of Alba,” from 1797, is a fantastic portrait.  I especially love that Goya inscribed his signature on the sandy shore where she’s standing. The Duchess unsubtly points a bejeweled finger toward his name.    

Goya's Duchess of Alba, Detail
The Duchess gives Goya the finger

 

Note: This is my original review of the Hispanic Society, published on May 14, 2022. The museum has re-opened more since then, and I’m happy to have updated the review here.

Iberian Dreams…

Like many other institutions around New York City, the Hispanic Society of America was founded by a rich guy who became obsessed with something. Think Gustav Heye and what is now the New York branch of the Smithsonian’s Museum of the American Indian, or Mr. Frick’s collection or Mr. Morgan’s library… Occasionally it was an obsessed rich woman, like Jacques Marchais’s thing for Tibetan Art or the artistic passions of Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney

In the case of the Hispanic Society, the rich dude was Archer Milton Huntington. And the obsession was the art of the Iberian peninsula. Archer Milton Huntington opened his Spanish Museum in 1908, though he’d dreamed of having a museum of some kind since he was a boy. Born very rich, the story goes that as a young man Huntington fell in love with Hispanic art on a visit to Mexico, which sparked many trips to Spain, learning Spanish as well as Arabic, and becoming both a connoisseur of and an expert in the art and culture.

The Hispanic Society is located in a splendid Beaux-Arts building in Harlem, part of the Audubon Terrace campus. It’s an interesting quirk of fate that Spanish is much more likely to be spoken in the museum’s neighborhood today than when it opened there a century ago. The beautiful old building is a blessing and a curse: the museum closed for a massive renovation shortly before I started my museum project back in 2017, and remained closed right up until 2022.

Today, happily, it is in the first stages of reopening its doors. When I visited back in March, I saw a “best-of” selection of the museum’s collection, curated to demonstrate how its mission has evolved and expanded.

Nuestra casa es su casa

The exhibit on view when I visited was titled Nuestra casa, and split a small basement space into two sections. The first half focused on Archer Huntington’s dream for the museum, travels in Spain, and the foundations of the collection. The second half was titled “A collection without borders” and focused on the museum’s mission since the 1990s, when it started to greatly increase its holdings from Latin America.

The Hispanic Society argues that this is justified because of the huge cultural influences back and forth between Iberia and its colonial (or former colonial) holdings – the Spanish and Portuguese speaking worlds. And of course it wants to stay relevant in a cultural landscape much-changed since Huntington’s time.

I’m not convinced the exhibit really supported the “one big world of influences” argument. It was easy to see Spain and Portugal influencing art in their overseas territories; however, cultural influences in the other direction were much less clear. I think that’s a fault of the bifurcated curation; it didn’t let the Society’s classic collection and its more recent acquisitions really talk to one another.

The space was a let-down as well: a small, windowless room, interrupted by a row of six large columns, with walls painted in shades of ochre that play off the collection’s Goya.

Hispanic Society Interior

That said, the Hispanic Society’s greatest hits are indeed quite great, including a dynamite Velázquez and the aforementioned showstopping Goya portrait, along with El Greco, Zurbarán, and even a dark and murky Sargent. I had a less strong reaction to the art from the New World, though some small devotional sculptures from Equador, depicting what awaits after death, were almost Tibetan in their macabre exuberance.

Four Fates of Man
Manuel Chili, “The Four Fates of Man,” Ecuador, ca 1775

Should You Visit the Hispanic Society Museum?

I’m excited that the Hispanic Society seems to be (slowly) returning to life as a museum. Its important collection and beautiful building are valuable restorations to the cultural fabric of the city. 

However, the tiny current space doesn’t merit a trip. Having seen photos of what the building’s interiors look like I’m confident that will change when more of the place opens back up. I just hope it won’t be another five years before that happens. 

Hispanic Society Interior View

The Hispanic Society is worth a quick stop if you happen to be in that part of Harlem. It might make a good combination with the splendid Morris-Jumel Mansion, both historic buildings. It is also close to the Sugar Hill Children’s Museum of Art and Storytelling, and while kids may not enjoy the Hispanic Society, at least the small size means they won’t get too impatient. 

On a nice day it would be pleasant to just hang out in the piazza of Audubon Terrace and contemplate Don Quixote (yay), the conquistadors (boo), and El Cid (yay? boo? I don’t know…), all of whom are immortalized there. The Society once shared the terrace with the aforementioned American Indian Museum, as well as the American Numismatic Society. A mini Lincoln Center of museums and cultural institutions, now scattered across the City. The American Academy of Arts and Letters is still there, and occasionally opens for exhibitions.

Audubon Terrace Plaza
El Cid, by Anna Hyatt Huntington

Finally, those with an interest in modern or contemporary Hispanic art should also consider El Museo del Barrio, which didn’t impress me much but for the moment has far more to see than the Hispanic Society.

For Reference:

Address 613 W 155th Street, Manhattan
Website hispanicsociety.org
Cost  General Admission:  Free

 

Museum of the American Gangster

Edification value 2/5
Entertainment value 4/5
Should you go? 2/5
Time spent 108 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned I liked this dusty model rum runner, combined with Mimi’s commentary drawing a direct line from these boats to World War II PT boats and Kennedy’s wartime heroism.   

Museum of the American Gangster-Rum Runner
Rum Runner!

I arrived at the Museum of the American Gangster predisposed to dislike it. A small, threadbare operation by the sound of it, two modest rooms over a nautically-themed absinthe-specialist dive bar on St. Marks Place (with a fancy take-out-window sandwich shop embedded in it). Combine that premise with a steep $20 admission charge and it seemed sketchy — like the execrable Ground Zero Museum Workshop, a ploy to separate gullible museum-goers from their hard-earned cash.

Museum of the American Gangster-Entrance

And, yup, it’s that.

But it’s not just that. It’s also Mimi, the guide on the Sunday shortly before New Year’s when I took my tour. Mimi who gave a rather astonishing, 105-minute, note-free, free-associative, and fascinating history of the entire American project, from colonization through today, as viewed through the lens of organized crime and from the unapologetic perspective of a smart, funny, middle-aged, super-liberal, Jewish New Yorker.

I realize that description contains a fair amount of redundancy.

What I Saw at the Gangster Museum

The Gangster Museum is indeed basically two rooms, the size of a starter New York apartment (which in a past life it probably was). Very much of the Science Fair variety of exhibition: lots of photos, reproduction documents, and wall text with a few artifacts (old bottles, models, some bullets from the St. Valentine’s Day Massacre…Tommy gun) to liven things up.

Museum of the American Gangster-Tommy Gun

You can only visit on a tour — no wandering in off the street. For the first chunk of it, covering the early history of organized crime and booze and America, there are thankfully seats. The second part is about standing and peering at pictures on the walls. There’s not much of any time for self-guided exploration, but then again, there’s not much to explore.

Museum of the American Gangster-OfficeThe space is, to put it kindly, disheveled. A desk in at the front of the first room serves as the office, with various bits that should probably be thrown out or tidied up, just kind of out there. If you need a restroom break, visit the dive bar on the ground floor.

Eventually, the tour takes you down to said dive bar, which was a speakeasy during Prohibition, and which also now houses the old St Mark’s Theater, installed after the Prohibition days. Then you put on somewhat sketchy hard hats (are these things sanitized between visitors?) and go down to the basement, which is even sketchier, and gives you a great view into what the basement of an East Village apartment building that also contains a dive bar and trendy sandwich shop looks like.  Cluttered with utility pipes and ducts and wires and conduits dangerously everywhere.

Museum of the American Gangster-Basement
Typical East Village Basement

 

In the Prohibition days, the organized criminal who ran the enterprise kept his office down there, and you can see what the space is like today. It didn’t add much.

What I Heard at the Gangster Museum

I’m not going to try to reconstruct the Gangster Museum spiel from my notes. You need to hear it firsthand. Some highlights of what we covered, though:

  • The triangle slave trade
  • Women’s rights and the dawn of Prohibition
  • Southern plantations as Auschwitz
  • Rum Runners and Kennedy’s WWII Heroics
  • Prescription Booze
  • The Dawn of the Cocktail
  • The Chemist Wars as Extrajudicial Killing — or “Assisted Suicide”
  • Prohibition was just for the poor

And then we finally got to gangsters. This review is already long enough but two of my particular favorite quotes from the gangster part were: 

  • Arnold Rothstein (real gangster): “I think we can do crime better.”
  • Omar Little (fictional gangster): “You come at the king, you best not miss.”

We rolled right over our allotted tour time and still barely had time for the history of the building. As it was Mimi turned away a guy who arrived for the 2:30 tour — sent him to the bar for a hot apple cider, because she wasn’t finished with us yet.

Museum of the American Gangster-Interior

We learned of lost safes, buried in concrete. The speakeasy turned theater, the lost office, the whole building an “improvised explosive device” should the Feds come knocking. Escape tunnels and expired Italian dinners (locked in said safes).

I can’t even.

There was a whole heck of a lot left out. No real conversation about organized crime post-Prohibition, or certainly not post-WWII.

Nothing about the potentially awesome, deep topic of organized crime in popular culture. Though Mimi did talk about the ways that early gangsters masterfully manipulated their images in popular culture — at least until their extralegal activities got too bloody or grandiose for their generosity or outsized personalities to balance.

I left exhausted and excited in a way I hardly expected from a two-room, threadbare, quasi-museum.

Museum of the American Gangster-Interior

Is The Museum of the American Gangster a Hit?

Rarely in the course of my museum project have I found myself so stymied by the bottom line. Generally, it’s an easy “go” or “don’t go.” Or a “go if you’re into so-and-so topic.” The Museum of the American Gangster isn’t a good museum — it’s not worth it if you approach it as one, even if you’re into organized crime.

But think of this place, instead, as a theatrical experience. Your reaction to it will completely depend on your guide and whether you click with that person. I can only speak for Mimi, who reminded me why I love this city in all its quirky, passionate, fascinating diversity.

Note also that there’s a Groupon deal seemingly always available that gets you in two-for-one. Do that. Even for Mimi, I have trouble recommending spending $20 on the Gangster Museum.

Museum of the American Gangster-Exterior

 

For Reference:

Address 80 Saint Marks Place, Manhattan (near First Avenue)
Website museumoftheamericangangster.org
Cost  General Admission:  $20, check website for guided tour times. Note, check Groupon for a 2 for one deal.
Other Relevant Links

 

American Kennel Club Museum of the Dog

Museum of the Dog
Edification value 3/5
Entertainment value 3/5
Should you go? 2/5
Time spent 52 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned There’s only one actual dog at the Museum of the Dog — or a former one, anyway. Belgrave Joe died in 1888, and is the prototype Fox Terrier. And the mascot of the AKC Library.Museum of the Dog He reminded me of the nameless canine taxidermied and memorialized at the Fire Museum.

Museum of the Dog

A Museum That’s Gone to the Dogs

The American Kennel Club Museum of the Dog is one of the newest museums in New York City, having opened in an office building lobby space near Grand Central in May of 2019. The Museum’s prior incarnation was located in St. Louis, but its move back to the Big Apple represents a homecoming for an institution based here from  its founding in 1982 until 1987.

The museum is split over two airy, brightly lit floors with large windows looking onto East 40th Street.  The design cleverly maximizes the limited floorspace, with temporary walls for paintings standing at a diagonal to the floorplan, and a series of library-style archival storage racks upstairs that visitors can look through.

Museum of the Dog

Ironically, dogs are not allowed.

The museum unsurprisingly collects caniniana (I just made that word up). What’s on display is mainly art — paintings and a multistory vitrine of small knicknacks and sculptures. It also includes a very few artifacts, like a charming carousel animal carved like a parakeet. Okay, carved like a dog.

Museum of the Dog
Looff Factory, “Queen” Carousel Piece, from 1890, mastiff breed.

If I had to characterize the paintings, I’d say they were mostly fairly mediocre, and in most other museums would be relegated to study collections or dusty back rooms (indeed, I speculate dusty back rooms of other museums may even be the source of some of the collection). But, hey, they’ve got a dog in them, so here they are stars of the show. One particular favorite of mine featured what I declare to be the world’s most windswept poodle, out on the moors somewhere.

Museum of the Dog
Maud Earl. Ch. Nunsoe Duc de la Terrace of Blakeen. 1935. I assume that’s the dog’s name but who knows? Poodle.

Who’s a Good Museum? Who’s a Good Museum?

The Museum of the Dog, like the AKC, is devoted to dogs, and their raising, training and breeding. Actually, almost exclusively the latter. Rather than dogs as companions, or dogs as living creatures, much of what’s on display speaks to dogs as objects that humans have shaped and molded over generations to create an astonishing array of variously lovable, weird, practical, and unlikely breeds.

One interactive element consists of a tabletop screen that with little dogs walking along it. Drag one to a doghouse and the table gives you all sorts of facts and lore about the breed.

Museum of the Dog

There’s other interactivity as well. A kiosk snaps a visitor’s selfie and then identifies a breed of dog they resemble. I got tagged as a German Pinscher, which I suppose I’ll take. At least I’m not a pug in its machine vision eyes. Though my ears are definitely not that pointy.

The museum also contains the AKC’s modest library, including everything from children’s literature to a book on the art of Beagling (I did not make that word up).

Museum of the Dog
The Dog Library

Speaking of beagling, I was grateful that in a rare moment of showing a dog as an exemplar of popular culture, rather than an object, the curators had a single Peanuts comic on display.

Museum of the Dog

Should You Visit the Museum of the Dog?

The AKC Museum of the Dog is a perfectly nice little museum. It’s very well designed, makes great use of its space, and doesn’t overwhelm the visitor. It’s a fun tribute to dogs, albeit one that’s very heavy on forgettable (except for that poodle) paintings and curios as the expression of dog.

Museum of the Dog
Museum design that outshines the collection

The emphasis on dogs as breeds, as objects that humans create and curate, took some of the joy out of the subject for me. I hope future exhibits look more at dogs in other lights, but given what the AKC does for a living, I’m not optimistic about that.

I’m not sure who the Museum of the Dog wants as its audience. It’s a natural topic for a kid-focused institution, but aside from a rather boring interactive dog training simulator and an activity area in the library there’s not much here that would appeal to kids.

Fundamentally, if you’re an AKC member you should absolutely go — you’re self-selected (I’d almost say bred) to love it. If you deeply love dogs, deeply, you might like it, too. For everyone else, $15 feels steep for what they have on display and what you learn.

Museum of the Dog
J. Alden Weir, “Words of Comfort,” 1887. Bloodhound and French bulldog

For Reference:

Address 101 Park Avenue, Manhattan (entrance on East 40th Street)
Website museumofthedog.org
Cost  General Admission:  $15