Old Stone House

Edification value  2/5
Entertainment value  3/5
Should you go?  2/5
Time spent 25 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned In an era when museums (including this one) are full of touch screens, I was happy to see an old-school board game version of the Battle of Brooklyn. Uh-oh, you drew a Hessian card! Except you’re the British, so that’s awesome for you!

Battle of Brooklyn, the Board Game

Old Stone House, Brooklyn

The Old Stone House isn’t actually all that old. And it’s not properly a house, though it is at least partially constructed from stone. Today’s Old Stone House replicates the Vechte-Cortelyou House, dating to 1699.  The original’s history  touches on Brooklyn’s earliest days, the Revolutionary War, and the dawn of the Brooklyn Dodgers. However, the house was demolished in the late 1800s.

That would’ve been that except that in 1934 the omnipresent (and nigh omnipotent) Robert Moses reconstructed it, mainly to serve as restrooms for Washington Park. The reconstruction used at least some of the stones from the original building, but unlike many of the house museums of the city, there’s nothing historic about the interior rooms or furnishings. Rather, the building contains a small museum focused mainly on the Battle of Brooklyn, with a little about the Vechte family.

Old Stone House, Brooklyn, Exhibits

Audience and Program

Mainly a kids museum, the displays are geared to the interests, attention span, and average height of the younger set. And yet, as a gathering place for the neighborhood, it aims at older people too. They show contemporary art in an upstairs space, and host theater and events with intriguing names like “Gin in June.”

The Battle of Brooklyn took place literally in the front garden, as a teeny but fairly dramatic diorama attests.  400 self-sacrificing Marylanders–like the Spartans only one-third more of them–kept a couple thousand redcoats busy long enough for Washington and his troops to slink away to Upper Manhattan, thence to base himself at the Morris-Jumel Mansion, and eventually abandon New York for the rest of the war.

Diorama, Old Stone House, Brooklyn
Beware of Hessians!

In museumological terms, the Old Stone House is rather straightforward. Its displays deploy a mix of technologies, culminating in a touchscreen-based day-by-day review of the Battle of Brooklyn, which I found hard to follow.

A family tree shows how the Revolution divided families between loyalists and revolutionaries. It also names some of the slaves who worked for the Vechte family, though of course no one bothered to record how they felt about independence, or anything else about their thoughts and beliefs. Still, I like that they don’t sweep the Vechte’s slaves under the historic rug. Another brief display on  slavery observes how surprisingly prevalent it was in revolutionary Brooklyn. One in three Kings County residents was a slave, and half of Dutch households owned them.

There’s little to see about the Dodgers, but the original Old Stone House served as the team’s clubhouse in the late 1800s.  Their first ballpark, long since gone, was in Washington Park, before they moved to the legendary (and also long-gone) Ebbets Field.

Moving upstairs, the current contemporary art show, titled “Multilocational,” featured work by two artists touching on themes of migration and acculturation. Sort of a smaller riff on Lehman College’s Alien Nations show.

Old Stone House, Brooklyn, Gallery

Who should visit? The Old Stone House is a quintessential local museum. It programs for its community, and that’s sufficient. Coming from Manhattan made me something of an exotic visitor to their parts. You might consider going if you are a huge fan of the Battle of Brooklyn or the history of baseball.  Otherwise, plenty of other museums offer a better view of Brooklyn and New York City history.

Washington Park, Brooklyn, from Old Stone House
View from the Old Stone House

For Reference:

Address 336 Third Street, Brooklyn
Website theoldstonehouse.org
Cost Free

 

Morris-Jumel Mansion

Edification value  3/5
Entertainment value  3/5
Should you go?  3/5
Time spent 77 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned Sconce With Wallpaper, Morris Jumel Mansion

The mansion has recently undergone a major wall upgrade, installing recreations of historic wallpaper based on Mme. Jumel’s descriptions. The Octagonal Drawing Room features an amazing pattern of clouds against a blue sky.  I must remember that for the next time I renovate MY octagonal drawing room.

Sylvan Terrace, Harlem

The way to the Morris-Jumel Mansion takes you up the gentle slope of Sylvan Terrace, a single block long and one of the most unlikely streets in all of Manhattan.  Paved with perfect cobblestones, both sides of the street consist of a matched set of beautiful, seemingly mint condition, wooden townhouses from the 19th century, all period charm and lovingly preserved detail.  It’s a miracle that it survived, though the big white house on the hill at the end of the terrace is more miraculous still:  the Morris-Jumel Mansion has lasted longer than any other home on the island, dating to 1765.  That makes it about 30 years older than the Dyckman farmhouse, just a bit to the north.  And instead of the Dyckman’s rustic, humble charm, Colonel Roger Morris built to his “summer villa” to impress.

Morris Jumel Mansion

Three stories (four if you include the basement), the grand house featured a columned portico and the first octagonal room in the country.  Col. Morris and his wife, loyal to the British, abandoned the place during the revolution, leading to its moment in the spotlight of history.  More on that later.  In 1810, Stephen Jumel, an immigrant from France, bought the mansion.  His wife, the smart and colorful Eliza Jumel (nee Bowen), has the strongest personality in the house today.

Madame Jumel

Eliza Jumel
Portrait of Eliza Jumel, Artist Unknown, 1832-1833

Eliza Bowen came from a poor family in Rhode Island.  Not only did she find in M. Jumel a successful businessman to marry, but she turned out to be something of a real estate tycoon herself.  The Jumels may not have been welcome in high society (being nouveau riche and from the wrong backgrounds), but they lived well.  They spent time in France, and Madame Jumel (always “Madame,” it seems, never “Missus”) returned with (so she claimed) Napoleon’s bedroom set, and strong ideas about decorating her summer villa.  No one’s quite sure if it really is Napoleon’s bedroom set, but just the fact that she’d tell people that brings her to life.  She lived in the house until she died in 1865, apparently becoming quite eccentric over time.

Hamilton and History

As with all buildings of that vintage, my first question related to my favorite Founding Father.  A.Ham indeed spent time there at least twice. Once during the period from September to October 1776 when Washington made the mansion his headquarters, before the British drove him and the Continental Army out of Manhattan.  And again in 1790 when Washington held a cabinet dinner meeting there.

Also, the notorious A.Burr actually lived here–Madame Jumel married him in 1832, just a year after M. Jumel’s death. Briefly. It seems she got along with him no better than Hamilton did, though at least he didn’t shoot her.  Rather, she divorced him.  Practically unthinkable in that time, it confirms that he really must’ve been a colossal jerk.

ALSO also, Lin-Manuel Miranda asked if he could spend some time in the mansion while he wrote “Hamilton,” the better to immerse himself in the period vibe.  So some portion of the musical came into the world in Aaron Burr’s bedroom at the Morris-Jumel Mansion.

That’s about as Hamiltonian as it gets.

The House Today

Morris-Jumel Mansion Display
Odds and ends, Morris-Jumel Mansion

In addition to Napoleon’s alleged bedstead, the house has some original furniture, with about six rooms fully decorated, and another couple currently undergoing restoration.  The kitchen space in the basement is open, but without much to see. As a fan of old kitchens, I hope they do something with it eventually.  It does contain an odd display of a toaster, a chamberpot, a bedwarmer, and a teacup.  Trying to figure out what those things have in common started to give me a headache.

Morris-Jumel Mansion
Dining Room, Morris-Jumel Mansion
iPad Holder, Morris Jumel Mansion
Insert Tablet Here

Each room has a rather handsome piece of modern wood furniture–a stand or a railing–designed to cradle an iPad.  But no tablets in sight. I asked about that–whether it was an attempt at deploying technology that had failed.  Turns out it’s still a work in progress.  The tablets, when installed, will provide deep dives on individual pieces of furniture, paintings, and other objects.  My skepticism of technology for technology’s sake in this sort of setting remains strong, but I like the idea of using screens to tailor descriptions to the needs and interests of visitors, enabling them to engage more deeply.

Trish, who was working the admission desk/gift shop that day, kindly answered my myriad questions, about technology and about history as well.  She told me that it opened to the public in 1906, like the Van Cortlandt House a project of the Colonial Dames of New York.  I asked how it survived, and she said Washington gets the credit:  although only for a month, the fact that the mansion served as his headquarters earned its preservation. Indeed, when it first opened, the place served as a sort of shrine to Washington and the Revolution. 

Only more recently has the story pivoted to focus on Madame Jumel, who after all lived there a lot longer, and about whose occupancy there’s a lot more historical information and documentation.  And Napoleon’s bedroom set.

Morris Jumel Mansion, Harlem, from Sunken GardenThe mansion’s vast land holdings at one point stretched the (albeit pretty narrow that far north) width of Manhattan.  All that land is now Washington Heights, of course. And yet, its commanding hilltop location, surrounded by tiny, lovely Roger Morris Park, offers a taste of the country to this day.  The grounds burst with rosebushes and even include a small sunken garden. I could easily see going back just to sit there and read a book.

Tea roses at Morris Jumel Mansion
Tea roses at Morris Jumel Mansion

Who should visit the Morris-Jumel Mansion?  Hamiltonians, for sure.  Fans of old wallpaper, and fans of rich eccentric 19th century madames.  Those into colonial architecture and house museums.  The three house museums of upper Manhattan (Dyckman Farmhouse, here, and the Hamilton Grange) provide a  varied look at life in the 18th and early 19th centuries.  Visiting all three of them would make for a highly edifying afternoon. 

For Reference:

Address Roger Morris Park, 65 Jumel Terrace, Manhattan
Website morrisjumel.org
Cost  General Admission:  $10
Other Relevant Links

Whitney Museum of American Art

Edification value  4/5
Entertainment value  
Should you go?  
Time spent 176 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned Charles Demuth and Elsie Driggs Juxtaposed at the Whitney MuseumA juxtaposition of two pieces: My Egypt, by Charles Demuth, and Pittsburgh, by Elsie Driggs. Both from 1927, they present similar and yet extremely divergent visions of industrialized landscapes.  One is clearly prettier than the other, and yet, as Driggs said of her grey smokestacks and pipes, “This shouldn’t be beautiful. But it is.”

The Met’s Worst Mistake?

The Whitney Museum of American Art.  Yet another art museum in our saturated city. Why does it exist?  Mainly because the Met in the late 1920s didn’t care to own a vast collection of work by living American artists.  Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney had offered the Met her collection, with an endowment, even.  Yes, the Met’s Board wouldn’t take the art even though they stood to get paid to do so.

It reminds me of the scene in the movie “Pretty Woman” where Julia Roberts gets treated miserably by the snooty store lady on Rodeo Drive, only to return later looking fabulous to point out what a humongous mistake said snooty lady had made.  Which raises the question, which museum is Richard Gere? 

Anyway, I will say that if any member of the Whitney family now or in the future offers to pay me to take, say, a Hopper or a Rothko, I will gladly accept that offer.

Continue reading “Whitney Museum of American Art”

BLDG 92 at Brooklyn Navy Yard

Edification value  4/5
Entertainment value  3/5
Should you go?  4/5
Time spent 95 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned A quote from a guy who works at a set design firm based in the Navy Yard today:  “This building built ships and now we build Saturday Night Live in it.”

BLDG 92, Brooklyn Navy YardBLDG 92 is the vowel-challenged, fascinating, historical center of the Brooklyn Navy Yard.  It tells the story of the Navy Yard through artifacts, an interactive tabletop, and a comprehensive timeline.  Continue reading “BLDG 92 at Brooklyn Navy Yard”

Museum of Arts and Design

Edification value  4/5
Entertainment value  4/5
Should you go?  4/5
Time spent 132 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned Kaisik Wong’s spacey, glam 1970s fashions look like costumes from a very trippy sci-fi film.  The opposite of most of the counterculture fashion on display, and yet they fit in somehow, too.

Museum of Arts and Design, New YorkNew York City is lucky to  boast not one but two extremely fine design museums — the Museum of Arts and Design and the Cooper Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum.  Augmented by the estimable design collections at MoMA and The Met.

Does it really need two design museums, though?  I think it does. The Cooper Hewitt and the Museum of Arts and Design (“MAD”) feel extremely different.  MAD’s collection starts at midcentury, shaping its outlook and sensibilities.  Cooper goes deeper and can do more with historical context.  I don’t think it’s entirely fair to say that the one is like MoMA and the other is like The Met.   But it’s not necessarily unfair to make that comparison, either.

Continue reading “Museum of Arts and Design”

Columbia University Rare Book & Manuscript Library

Edification value  3/5
Entertainment value  3/5
Should you go?  3/5
Time spent 36 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned The publisher Harper Brothers proposed to  seal Mark Twain’s memoirs until 2000.  Then they would be published by subscription (quoting the exhibit’s text) “in whatever mode should then be prevalent, that is by printing as at present, or by use of phonographic cylinders, or by electrical methods or by any other method which may then be in use.”  The show has Twain’s 1900 letter agreeing to these terms. No doubt he didn’t want his meeting with the crew of the Starship Enterprise to mess with the timeline too much.

I’m not sure I should review the exhibition space at the Columbia Rare Book Library.  It isn’t readily accessible to the public — you can’t just drop by.  But I have an alumni library pass, and I was in the vicinity recently, and it is in my database.  So I figured, why not?

Columbia Rare Book & Manuscript Library

Columbia’s Rare Book & Manuscript Library resides in a surprisingly airy, skylit, and pastel space at the top of the university’s Butler Library.  It features two exhibit spaces:  a wall’s length of cases for general purposes, and an octagonal space that typically features items from Columbia’s own history.

Although a small space, the show I saw there indicates they use it well. That show celebrated the bicentennial of HarperCollins publishers, which started out as Harper & Brothers in 1817.

The Harper brothers started out as printers, but with their 1817 publication of an edition of Seneca’s Morals, they launched one of the most famous publishing concerns in American history.

The exhibit has some of their early ledger books, handwritten lists of works for which they held the copyright.

Harper & Brothers 1850s Era Ledger

It features old books galore, including a first American edition of Moby-Dick

Moby-Dick First Edition
Thar She Blows!

It also covers multivolume editions Harper did especially for schools and libraries, edifying or stultifying generations.  It spends time on their periodicals, which naturally helped promote the books.  And it turns out Harper published some of the most beloved books from my (and everyone’s) childhood.

Finally, E. B. White also published with Harper, making them responsible for my favorite book about New York City.

Here is New York

Harper & Brothers Bond Certificate
$500 Harper & Brothers Bond

In addition to many neat, nostalgic books, the show covers the history of the business. News Corp eventually bought it, merging Harper with Collins in 1989.  I liked a $500 Harper & Brothers bond certificate, and the curators called out the use of the  picture of the dog at the bottom as highly unusual.  However, I saw that same dog at the Grolier Club‘s currency engraving show not that long ago.  Small world.

 

 

The octagonal gallery had an exhibit documenting the history of gay student life at Columbia, from the time when homosexuality violated the law, through the AIDS crisis, to today.  I’m proud to say Columbia was home to the first gay student group on a college campus — the Student Homophile League — dating to 1967. Second most interesting thing I learned there.

Any bibliophile would find a visit the Columbia Rare Book Library worthwhile.  And maybe others would too. If the Harper exhibit is any indication, they can make even seemingly dry topics interesting and fun.  That said, it’s a small space in a college library, devoted to abstruse and obscure bookish topics.  So probably not a place to which everyone must rush immediately.

For Reference:

Address Butler Library, 6th Floor, Columbia University Campus. 535 W. 114th Street, Manhattan
Website columbia.edu
Cost Free, but Columbia Library ID or equivalent required for entry
Other Relevant Links
  • NPR on University of California Press publishing of a “true” version of Twain’s autobiography in 2010.

A.I.R. Gallery

Edification value  2/5
Entertainment value  2/5
Should you go?  2/5
Time spent 11 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned Maxine Henryson’s beautiful, long, accordion-folded photobooks.  Stretched out on a table, they reward much slow, close viewing.
A.I.R. Gallery, DUMBO, Brooklyn
Self Portrait, With A.I.R.

A.I.R. Gallery is more of an art gallery than a museum.  There are several organizations on my list that fall into this fuzzy zone.  Non-profit or not-for-profit, they nonetheless primarily exist to sell art to buyers, rather than display art for improvement and/or entertainment of the masses.  I wrestled with this a bit at the outset of this project, and still don’t have a firm sense of the right call.

But for now I’m including them.

A.I.R. has longevity on it side:  according to its website it was founded in 1972 as the first cooperative art gallery featuring all female artists.

There was no particular theme to the work on view on my visit; rather the gallery showed works by three artists: a photographer, a sculpter, and a conceptualist. 

Maxine Henryson photo at A.I.R. Gallery
Maxine Henryson photograph from “Contrapuntal”

I really quite liked the photography on show.  The artist, Maxine Henryson, is from the school of “Focus?!  Who needs focus?” Which I’m always skeptical of, and yet sometimes the craft and deliberation is so evident that you can’t help but admire and appreciate the result.

The sculptural and conceptual bits weren’t bad, but equally weren’t my thing and in this case I won’t impose my taste on my sense of the place as an institution.

 

Sculpture at A.I.R. Gallery, DUMBO, Brooklyn
“Invisible Float,” Sculpture by MaryKate Maher

Should you go?  It wouldn’t be top of my list–it’s pretty small, and depending on what’s on exhibition your edification and entertainment mileage will vary.  Still, it is historically distinguished, and it makes for a quick art break.  Can’t hurt to drop by if you have spare time in the neighborhood.  Finally, A.I.R. Gallery makes a convenient double bill with the similarly nonprofit Art in General, just down the street.  

For Reference:

Address 155 Plymouth Street, Brooklyn
Website airgallery.org
Cost Free

Art in General

Edification value  
Entertainment value  3/5
Should you go?  2/5
Time spent 10 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned A giant inflatable chupacabra

UPDATE: APRIL 2021: Art in General has permanently closed due to the pandemic. It is the only NYC museum that cited COVID as the specific reason it is closing down. 

Art in General, Front DoorI’m not sure Art in General belongs on a list of museums.  It’s really an art gallery (in the sense of a place to buy art), albeit a nonprofit one. I’ve been giving nonprofits a pass so far, so there I went.

Art in General Coyotaje Exhibit
Art in General Darkness

I didn’t get a great sense of Art in General’s space or capabilities during my visit. The current exhibition, Coyotaje, by Postcommodity, is mainly about sound and darkness.  A single photograph of bones and dogs hangs at the end of a dark, cloth-draped hallway.  On the way there, speakers play whispery or urgent Spanish voices ostensibly of people trying to get across the US-Mexico border. But they might also be US border agents seeking to steer those people onto the wrong track.

Art in General, Coyotaje Exhibition
Chupacabra (?) With Video Projection

The chupacabra or monster/dinosaur/whatever it is represents another anti-migrant tactic.  It reflects or invokes the decoys that the border patrol puts out in the desert to scare or confuse would-be migrants. 

I don’t think this installation succeeded.  It was meant to evoke anxiety, but to me it was just a sort of weak carnival haunted house.  Both the Alien Nations show at Lehman College and the really moving Parson’s show demonstrated how eloquently and effectively art can address the trials faced by migrants.  Coyotaje didn’t do that for me.  It required a detailed explanation and a translated transcription to make sense of it. I don’t mind hermetic and inaccessible art now and then, but this overdid it.

Still, a giant inflatable chupacabra is not something you see every day. At least, I hope you don’t.  And even a lame haunted house is still sort of fun.

If you’re doing a DUMBO art excursion, Art in General should be on your list, along with A.I.R. Gallery — both are in the same large, formerly-industrial building.  But I’m only lukewarm on whether I’d recommend a DUMBO art excursion in the first place.

For Reference:

Address 145 Plymouth Street, Brooklyn
Website artingeneral.org
Cost Free

Rose Museum at Carnegie Hall

Edification value  2/5
Entertainment value  3/5
Should you go?  2/5
Time spent 12 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned Cornerstone trowel, Rose Museum, Carnegie HallWhen they laid the cornerstone for the Music Hall, Andrew Carnegie himself said  that “here all good causes may find a platform.” Remarkably, that statement evolved into a policy of openness to anyone who wanted to take the stage (and could afford to rent it). So even in times when many venues were closed to, say, African American performers, Carnegie was open.

Two Carnegie-related places in a row. First the Cooper Hewitt in Andrew Carnegie’s former home, now the museum of the history of the eponymous Hall. I feel I should open with a joke:

Q. How do you get to the museum at Carnegie Hall?

A. Just head toward the First Tier restrooms at intermission.

Rose Museum, Carnegie HallThe Rose Museum is a small space telling the story of Carnegie Hall, twice actually: once from a building/Carnegie perspective, the other more from an artistic perspective.  But they run together and get a little redundant. It is indeed between the auditorium and the First Tier restrooms, as well as the patrons’ lounge.

Ella Fitzgerald, LP cover and glasses, Rose Museum @ Carnegie Hall
Ella Fitzgerald’s Glasses, Live at Carnegie Hall

It’s got some artifacts: various conductors’ batons, Henny Youngman’s clarinet, Ella Fitzgerald’s glasses. And a great display of LP sleeves from some of the myriad records produced “live at Carnegie Hall.” And a number of original or facsimile documents relevant to the place.  I found it pretty engaging.  But for all that music can help bring museum exhibits to life (e.g., at the Museum at F.I.T.), it’s a tough task making music the subject for a museum.

Album Covers, Carnegie Hall
Decades of “Live at Carnegie Hall” LPs

Carnegie Hall is an absolute treasure.  The city would be immeasurably poorer without it. But for a long time its survival was extremely doubtful.  The thing I liked least at the Rose Museum was a reproduction of a 1959 article from Life Magazine about what would replace Carnegie Hall. The Life story makes it sound like demolishing it (in favor of a hideous fire-engine-red skyscraper) was a done deal.  Happily for the city, the developer couldn’t raise the money, and Carnegie Hall survived.  But it got me thinking.

Life Magazine Article on Carnegie Hall Replacement
In an Alternate Universe…

The loss of Carnegie Hall would have been a disaster, but nothing happens in a vacuum. The original, glorious Penn Station was torn down in 1964. What if they had succeeded in demolishing Carnegie Hall 5 years earlier? It’s fair to speculate that that event would have galvanized the historic preservation movement.  Which might then have raised sufficient hue and cry that maybe, arguably, plausibly, the effort to save Penn Station would have succeeded.

So that raises a fascinating thought experiment. Which New York would you prefer?

  • One with Carnegie Hall and the terrible ordeal that is Penn Station today.
  • Or one with no Carnegie Hall, but the McKim Mead and White Penn Station.

For all that I love the music hall, I might make that trade.

If haven’t yet, you really should attend a concert at Carnegie Hall! They program a diverse set of performers, something there is bound to attract you. Architecturally and acoustically it’s a treasure.

But treat the museum as someplace to kill time during an intermission, not a destination for a special trip.

If you love performing arts and can’t attend a concert there, go take the tour–actually stand on the famous stage! And if you can’t do THAT, then, as a third-best option, do take a spin through the museum.

Carnegie Hall

For Reference:

Address 881 Seventh Avenue at 57th Street, Manhattan
Website carnegiehall.org
Cost  Free
Other Relevant Links

 

Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum

Edification value  4/5
Entertainment value  4/5
Should you go?  4/5
Time spent 107 minutes
Best thing I saw or learned Art Deco Coffee Service

I wanted to own many of the things in the Jazz Age show, but none more than this 1927 Cubic Coffee Service designed by Erik Magnussen for Gorham.  A Picasso-esque vision of reality brought astonishingly to life.  It makes me wonder, if a Cubist painted a still life of this coffee set, would it come out looking normal?

The Cooper Hewitt Museum is the Smithsonian Institution’s branch devoted to design.  It started out under the guardianship of Cooper Union, which closed it in the 1960s.  The Smithsonian then adopted it and it opened in its current location in the 1970s.  (There’s a second Smithsonian branch in New York: the Museum of the American Indian, in Lower Manhattan.) 

Two features deeply distinguish the Cooper-Hewitt from all other museums in the city.  First, the building, and second, the electronic pen.

The Cooper-Hewitt is another in the series of great New York museums occupying mansions of the Gilded Age robber barons. However, its mansion might just be the best of all of them. The Cooper-Hewitt’s  Fifth Avenue abode started out as the 1902, 64-room abode of Andrew Carnegie.  While the interior is much changed from Carnegie’s time, it retains a good deal of period detail, including yet another beautiful staircase (I should add it to my list), a glassed-in conservatory, and much ornate plaster and woodwork.

Cooper Hewitt Museum, Carnegie Mansion, New York
Crazy wisteria climb the rear of the Carnegie mansion

The jewel-like garden recently opened to the public for free — you can just walk in.  If you tried that back in Mr. Carnegie’s day, it probably wouldn’t have gone so well for you. The day I went the wisteria were blooming like mad, the sun was shining, and it was almost a shame to go indoors to look at art.

Before I get to the art, though, a word on the second distinguishing thing: the electronic pen.  The Cooper Hewitt underwent a major refit a few years back. When it reopened in 2014, along with a whole new floor of exhibition space and the public garden, the museum rolled out digital pens.  Every visitor gets one of these gizmos, enabling them to interact with the digital tabletops  throughout the museum. More importantly, visitors can also capture any object that they see with a tap of the pen. 

You return the pen at the end of your visit, but you take away a unique URL that provides details and images of all the objects you tagged.  It’s like a Crate & Barrel wedding registry, for things none of your friends could possibly afford.

Cooper Hewitt Pen
Cooper Hewitt Magic Pen (and my hand and iPad)

Part of me feels skeptical about the pen.  What’s wrong with taking notes the old fashioned way (i.e., by snapping photos of objects and captions)?  But part of me just loves it.  It’s super gutsy of the Smithsonian to  bridge the physical and digital worlds like this, and to zig when all other museums offer the zag of an audio guide.  It works really well.  It’s fun!  And I imagine the pens generate a treasure trove of data for the museum.  If I were them I’d map visitors’ paths through the place, identify popular items, and understand how people use the Cooper Hewitt. (I collected 47 items, 24 different types of item, associated with 9 colors and 119 tags…etc.)

The digital tables appeal, too, inviting visitors to “grab” random objects with their pens and trace their way through the museum’s collection by material, theme, function, or era. Visitors can also use the pen to take a stab at designing something of their own.

Finally, there’s also a space called the “Immersion Room,” which projects wallpapers lifesize on the walls, or lets you use the magical pen to design a wallpaper of your very own.  Maybe more about Instagrammable moments than about learning about design, but that’s fine in moderation, and my wallpaper had crescent moons and bats.

So that’s the mansion and the tech.  On top of all those, the Cooper Hewitt has a fantastic collection and the space to show it off well. The main show when I visited was “The Jazz Age,” design from the 1920s. 

Jazz-Age Desk
“Skyscraper Desk” from the Jazz Age show

A few weeks back I wished there was a historic house museum from the Art Deco era.  This show amplifies that wish.  How amazing would it be to see these objects in actual rooms that people lived in? Many beautiful, covetable things, and I also note that the exhibition deployed music well: it wouldn’t be a Jazz Age show without jazz.

Screen, 1921, Cooper Hewitt Museum

Who should visit the Cooper Hewitt?  I think almost everyone.  You definitely don’t need to be a design geek to derive huge pleasure and edification from it.  It combines a wonderful building from the past with interactive technology that feels like the future and a collection that spans all eras.

Deco Sofa, Cooper Hewitt Museum
Canapé Gondole, 1925, by Marcel Coard

Finally, design museums have the best gift shops.  So, if nothing else has enticed you yet (that pen, though!) go for the shopping.

For Reference:

Address 2 East 91st Street, Manhattan
Website cooperhewitt.org
Cost  General Admission:  $16 in advance online, $18 at the door.  Free for Smithsonian members.